Backups and Archiving

1) Plan your backup

The first step is to determine what needs to be backed up. How and what to backup are personal decisions based on how you use your computer. The following are some examples.

Basic system: Data only

Do you use your computer for personal use with its original factory configuration and perhaps an additional program or two? Consider a Data Only Backup Solution. Frequency of Backups would depend on how often information is added or changed. The more often you add or change files, the more often you should back them up. For programs like Outlook and Quicken, where it’s not obvious where their data are kept; their help files usually describe how to back them up.

Complex system: Hard drive imaging plus separate data backup

Do you have a large number of programs installed and/or complex configurations that would take many hours to recreate? Would you or your business suffer if you had to take the time to set everything up from scratch? Consider a disk imaging solution. A disk image, created with a program such as Symantec’s Ghost, is an exact copy of an entire hard drive. Create a new disk image every time a major system change is made. Then Backup your data as needed.

Business system: Automated, complete system backup

Does your computer contain real-time business data that changes frequently? Consider an automated software backup solution and redundant hardware systems. Implement a backup media rotation system and rotate a set off site. Super critical systems warrant complete backup computers and even entire off-premise facilities, called hot-sites.

Things to consider

Try to implement the simplest plan possible which will still accomplish your goals. The less effort it takes to back up your computer, the more likely you will have a current backup when you need it. For example: configure your applications so they keep their data in a central location. By doing this, a backup can be accomplished by simply copying that one folder to a blank CD.

The programs and operating system on your computer are interconnected. A portion (Just the OS or a single Application) will not function apart from the whole. Data files, on the other hand, are portable. Backup (and restore) either the entire computer or just the data; anything else won’t work. In addition, operating systems are unique to the machine on which they were installed. If you restore an OS onto a different computer, it most likely will not work. There are ways around this problem, but they are difficult to implement. If you are dealing with irreparable or stolen hardware, your most straightforward option is to install your programs onto a replacement computer and restore only data.

Even if you choose a complete disk backup solution, not all the files need to be backed up. Some commercial music or video files are encoded so they will only work on the unit where they were originally downloaded. Whether they can be used on a different or recovered system depends on the Digital Rights Management (DRM) scheme used. Also, things like the Internet Cache and temporary files folders have no value. Backing them up will only waste your time and space on your backup media.

2) Determine if backup software is necessary

For most basic backups, simply copying the files to external media is adequate. For more complex situations, backup software can provide added flexibility. Backup software allows you to specify what parts of your computer you wish to include and exclude from the backup. They allow you to make Incremental or Differential backups, where only the files that have changed since the last backup session are copied, speeding the backup process.

Most backup programs also have a schedule or timer feature, which can perform the backup after office hours. If the selected media cannot contain the entire archive, some programs allow backups to span multiple pieces of media. The resulting media can contain the following: Plain files (copy), disk images (Ghost), and archive files (backup programs). Everything except for the plain file copy requires using the creating program to restore files.

In order to restore a backup, you need a functioning computer. Some backup programs come with bootable disks, which will allow you to use a computer with a corrupted (non-bootable) operating system. Many programs even support performing a data restore over network connections.

3) Select where you are going to put your backup

Once you know what needs to be backed up and how you can select appropriate media, some things to consider include the following:

• Will the media hold the entire backup, or will you have to "babysit" and swap in blank media as needed?


• How long it will take to run the backup?


• Do you want multiple sets of backup media to rotate off-site? (This can be difficult with an external hard disk drive, but easier with tapes or recordable DVDs if the amount of data is not too great.)

Some people opt not to use removable media at all and instead synchronize their data across multiple computers, such as between their home and office. Others choose on-line data warehouses on the Internet where they can store their backups. And still others put their trust in redundant (mirrored) drive systems. In the end, it’s up to you to decide what’s right for you.

Media	Avg. Capacity	Speed	Pros and Cons
USB "Thumb" Drives	2GB and up	Fast	Small, easily lost or damaged
Recordable Optical Disks	650MB (CD) 4.7 - 9.4GB (DVD)	Medium	Inexpensive, easily damaged
Removable Disks	1.4MB (floppy) 500MB+ (MO)	Varies	Media can be expensive, availability issues
External Hard Drives	80 - 1TB	Very Fast	Huge capacity, fast, may not be very portable
Local Area Network (Shared server storage)	Varies	Medium	Requires network, ties up network bandwidth
Internet-Based Backup	Varies	Slow	Off-Site, accessible anywhere, requires broadband; ongoing cost
Network Attached Storage (NAS) Stand-Alone Storage (SAS)	Varies	Medium	Requires network, can tie up network bandwidth
RAID (mirroring)	Varies	Very Fast	Real time, requires no user intervention, no off-site storage or history

4) Make a recovery plan and recovery kit

The best time to determine how to restore a system is not in the middle of a crisis. Consider making a written plan of the steps necessary to restore your computer before it is needed. Keep this plan updated and, if possible, test it to make sure it works. In addition, test your backups, making sure the media is readable and that it contains everything it is supposed to.



If your hard drive fails catastrophically, having a current backup can be
critical.

Be aware that viruses and other malicious programs are just files on the
hard drive and can inadvertently be included. A comprehensive anti-virus package should be used on every computer.

Create a recovery kit and keep it in a secure, but accessible, location.
If your backup contains critical Business information, two copies are suggested, keep on on-site for immediate access, and a second copy off-site as a precaution against catastrophic events.

Your recovery kit should contain the following:

• An up-to-date copy of your recovery plan


• Operating System or restore CDs and product key


• All application installation CDs and their product keys


• All programs needed to recover the backup data


• Anything else needed to make this or another computer functional

Windows XP includes a backup utility that can save your files to removable media, a different hard drive, or a network drive.

Note: It does not directly support burning to recordable CD or DVD media.

Windows 7 Backup application adds an option to create an emergency boot disk and can make a complete system backup or incremental backup either at a scheduled time or on demand.



Backup 2.0.2 is available to .Mac members by selecting the Backup icon on the .Mac website and via Automatic Software Update to .Mac members who have already installed a previous version of Backup.

If you use OS X 10.5 or 10.6 and are a subscriber to MobileMe, download the current version of MobileMe Backup to keep items in your Home folder in sync across multiple computers and devices. This includes email, contacts, calendar, bookmarks and other content. To backup items outside of the Home folder, Apple suggests using Time Machine, which can back up your entire hard drive to a Time Capsule, hard drive, or network volume.

Using Extended Character Sets in Windows

Windows includes a handy utility for previewing, selecting and transferring special characters to most applications that support pasting from the Windows clipboard. This is the accessory called Character Map. If it has been installed it is usually found in the Accessories list under your Start Menu (Start, Programs, Accessories, Character Map.)

[caption id="attachment_359" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The Character Map tool in Windows XP"][/caption]

Using the Character Map accessory: Select the same font you are using in your other Windows application from the pull-down list. If you do not find the symbol you are looking for as part of the font table, you may need to select a different font and change to that to display or print the desired symbol. Different fonts will have different character sets and symbols in their tables. Clicking once on a character displays a larger view of the symbol. The status line at the bottom shows the description and the keystrokes necessary to create the symbol within your application.

Double-clicking on a symbol copies it to the box at the bottom of the window. You can also click on the "Select" button after clicking once on the symbol. Once you have all of the characters listed in the copy box, click the "Copy" button to transfer them to the Windows clipboard. You can then use "Paste" from your file menu to insert them into your application.

Using the ALT key: At the bottom right corner of the window is information for inserting the character from the keyboard. In this example, you would press and hold the ALT key, then enter four numbers - 0,1,7 and 4 from the number pad (not the regular keys above the "qwerty" row). Once you have entered the four digit number, release the ALT key. If this is blank, you must use cut & paste.

[caption id="attachment_360" align="aligncenter" width="77" caption="The complete Times New Roman character set map."][/caption]

Windows Keyboard Shortcuts

Use shortcut keys as an alternative to the mouse when working in Windows. You can open, close, and navigate the Start menu, desktop, menus, dialog boxes, and Web pages using keyboard shortcuts. Keyboard shortcuts may also make it easier for you to interact with your computer. Menus may have an Underlined letter in a command name on an open menu; with the menu list open, pressing the letter will carry out the corresponding command.

General keyboard shortcuts
Press	To
CTRL+C	Copy.
CTRL+X	Cut.
CTRL+V	Paste.
CTRL+Z	Undo.
DELETE	Delete.
SHIFT+DELETE	Delete selected item permanently without placing the item in the Recycle Bin.
CTRL while dragging an item	Copy selected item.
CTRL+SHIFT while dragging an item	Create shortcut to selected item.
F2	Rename selected item.
CTRL+RIGHT ARROW	Move the insertion point to the beginning of the next word.
CTRL+LEFT ARROW	Move the insertion point to the beginning of the previous word.
CTRL+DOWN ARROW	Move the insertion point to the beginning of the next paragraph.
CTRL+UP ARROW	Move the insertion point to the beginning of the previous paragraph.
CTRL+SHIFT with any of the arrow keys	Highlight a block of text.
SHIFT with any of the arrow keys	Select more than one item in a window or on the desktop, or select text within a document.
CTRL+A	Select all.
F3	Search for a file or folder.
ALT+ENTER	View properties for the selected item.
ALT+F4	Close the active item, or quit the active program.
ALT+Enter	Displays the properties of the selected object.
ALT+SPACEBAR	Opens the shortcut menu for the active window.
CTRL+F4	Close the active document in programs that allow you to have multiple documents open simultaneously.
ALT+TAB	Switch between open items.
ALT+ESC	Cycle through items in the order they were opened.
F6	Cycle through screen elements in a window or on the desktop.
F4	Display the Address bar list in My Computer or Windows Explorer.
SHIFT+F10	Display the shortcut menu for the selected item.
ALT+SPACEBAR	Display the System menu for the active window.
CTRL+ESC	Display the Start menu.
ALT+Underlined letter in a menu name	Display the corresponding menu.
F10	Activate the menu bar in the active program.
RIGHT ARROW	Open the next menu to the right, or open a submenu.
LEFT ARROW	Open the next menu to the left, or close a submenu.
F5	Refresh the active window.
BACKSPACE	View the folder one level up in My Computer or Windows Explorer.
ESC	Cancel the current task.
Press and hold a SHIFT key when you insert a CD into the CD-ROM drive	Prevent the CD from automatically playing.
Dialog box keyboard shortcuts
Press	To
CTRL+TAB	Move forward through tabs.
CTRL+SHIFT+TAB	Move backward through tabs.
TAB	Move forward through options.
SHIFT+TAB	Move backward through options.
ALT+Underlined letter	Carry out the corresponding command or select the corresponding option.
ENTER	Carry out the command for the active option or button.
SPACEBAR	Select or clear the check box if the active option is a check box.
Arrow keys	Select a button if the active option is a group of option buttons.
F1	Display Help.
F4	Display the items in the active list.
BACKSPACE	Open a folder one level up if a folder is selected in the Save As or Open dialog box.
Windows Explorer keyboard shortcuts
Press	To
END	Display the bottom of the active window.
HOME	Display the top of the active window.
NUM LOCK+ASTERISK on numeric keypad (*)	Display all subfolders under the selected folder.
NUM LOCK+PLUS SIGN on numeric keypad (+)	Display the contents of the selected folder.
NUM LOCK+MINUS SIGN on numeric keypad (-)	Collapse the selected folder.
LEFT ARROW	Collapse current selection if it's expanded, or select parent folder.
RIGHT ARROW	Display current selection if it's collapsed, or select first subfolder.
Help and Support keyboard shortcuts
Press	To
ALT+SPACEBAR	Display the System menu.
SHIFT+F10	Display the Help and Support shortcut menu.
ALT+TAB	Switch between the Help and Support Center and other open windows.
CTRL+TAB	Switch to the next pane.
CTRL+SHIFT+TAB	Switch to the previous pane.
UP ARROW	Move up one item in the  Index, search results, or list of Help topics.
DOWN ARROW	Move down one item in the Index, search results, or list of Help topics.
PAGE UP	Move up one page in the Index, search results, or list of Help topics.
PAGE DOWN	Move down one page in the Index, search results, or list of Help topics.
F6	Switch focus between the different panes in Help and Support Center.
UP ARROW or DOWN ARROW	Scroll through a topic.
CTRL+HOME	Move to the beginning of a topic.
CTRL+END	Move to the end of a topic.
CTRL+A	Select all text in a pane.
CTRL+P	Print a topic.
ALT+LEFT ARROW	Move back to the previously viewed topic.
ALT+RIGHT ARROW	Move forward to the next (previously viewed) topic.
ALT+F4	Close Help and Support Center.

Media Streaming: You can take it with you...

For several years, I have been playing around with different ways to access and stream media from a TV tuner or home PC. Usually, it's just an experiment to see how much I can do with a Windows Media Center system, or to show off the capabilities of various devices, like my Windows-based PDA phone...

There are several ways to do this by using a PC or with stand-alone hardware such as a Slingbox or similar device to transmit the audio or video, and using a network-enabled PDA, phone, notebook or PC to control and receive the streaming media. You can also stream media directly from a PC to another web-enabled device with nothing much more than some software designed for the purpose, such as "orb" which can stream to any device that support Windows Media Player or RealPlayer. Another popular streaming format on many sites is Apple's QuickTime, which like Media Player can playback streaming media as it is received, or load and play audio or video files already on your system.

What is Streaming Media?
Streaming media differs from downloading and playback in that you can be viewing (or listening) to the media as the packets of data are being sent over the network. Streaming media files are generally not saved to the local computer's drive, but are "buffered" in a temporary file that contains only the immediate data required to playback the media for the next short period of time. The size of the buffer may be something you can set in the player's preferences, or be limited by the speed of the data transfer itself.

Streaming allows one to view "Live TV" remotely and on devices that have no TV tuner, just a network connection. Streaming data is transmitted by a remote "server" and played back in near real time by the receiving device. Audio or video playback can begin as soon as enough data has been received and stored in the client's buffer.

Some well known examples of streaming media that you may already be using includes video steaming such as youtube.com and hulu.com and steaming audio such as pandora.com. Streaming media may be in the form of audio or video podcasts, movie trailers,
commercials, as well as real-time applications such as educational lectures (e-learning), web meeting, Voice over IP telephone and video conferencing, and the list goes on.

Check out your local radio station websites, many offer live streaming-audio of the over-the-air broadcast. TV stations, including many broadcast or cable network site now offer clips, previews, or even the current episodes for viewing.

Streaming has been available for years, but typically required having a dedicated media server that would compress and transmit the packets of media data over the network to the remote clients. The capability became more widespread as manufacturers added streaming media functions to software used to control the TV tuner adapter along with recording and direct playback features.

Companies such as ATI offered applications bundled with their TV Tuners that could stream live TV or recorded shows to remote systems running a special streaming media client.

When Microsoft introduced their Media Center version of Windows, it included the capability for Media Extenders to remotely access, control, and view TV and other media available on the Media Center PC. These Media Extenders could be a stand-alone network device, or something like an Xbox 360. Generally, Media Center systems and Media Extenders are designed to be used on "private" networks, and don't give you much, if any, capability to access your media across the Internet.

The quality of the playback is directly tied to the data transfer speed. With dial-up-networking (remember those telephone modems?), streaming is possible, but will only support very small player resolutions, and even then, it may be "choppy" or encounter delays if you have any noise or loss of signal. Although slightly better, 802.11b wireless networking has similar limitations.

To use a Windows Media Center Extender to view live TV or video playback, Microsoft originally recommended having at least an 802.11bg or 802.11abg connection. With wired networking, the higher data transfer speeds make even remote viewing of High Definition TV possible. Again, the quality of the playback and the player resolution will be limited by the actual transfer speeds between your devices. This means that the uplink speed of your media "server" may be the limiting factor, and if you are connecting across the Internet, you may also have occasional issues with slowdowns between the various service providers.

Sling Media's Slingbox products were one of the first stand-alone devices that allow you to stream audio or video over the Internet or just across your home network. A Slingbox is designed to connect directly to your cable or satellite source, although you can attach any compatible device. The Slingbox Pro-HD not only supports High Definition signals (both incoming and streaming them to you), but also incorporates analog and HD digital (ATSC) tuners allowing you to stream your video without changing the channel on your big screen TV.

The Slingbox Solo does not have integrated tuners, meaning you need a way to control your cable or satellite TV tuner box to view a particular show. Like the original Slingbox, both the Solo and Pro-HD have what is called a "data blaster", which is nothing more then a pair of Infrared LEDs that can transmit the necessary remote-control signals to your tuner device, turning it on and off, changing channels, etc. remotely, using the SlingPlayer application. (To compare the features, check out http://www.slingbox.com/go/slingbox-prohd-help-me-choose)

[caption id="attachment_329" align="aligncenter" width="205" caption="The Slingbox Solo supports pass-through of composite, S-video, and component video signals."][/caption]

I had opportunity to play around with a Slingbox Solo, and experimented with some different sources and remote players. The Slingbox Solo has three different audio/video inputs; Component Video such as from a High Definition Player or HD converter box, Composite Video and S-video. The Slingbox solo does not steam HD, it just has a compatible signal input, if you want to stream 720 or 1080 HD signals, you need the Pro-HD version of the Slingbox.

Coming up with some input signals for the Solo was becoming a challenge, since I only have cable-ready devices, and don't use anything with a component video output. I do have an S-VHS camera, but to test the signal, I simply connected an S-video cable from one of my computer video cards to the Slingbox and toggled the display to include the S-video out. When I brought up the SlingPlayer software, and selected the source as S-video, I had a blurry, but recognizable view of a Windows desktop. Although S-video is crisper than a composite video signal, it's still in the 640x480 resolution range. Squishing a 1024x768 display image down to the much lower analog TV resolution signal doesn't do much for the viewing experience if you were trying to use the system normally.

Viewing a full-screen video or other media on the computer would be no worse then a normal analog TV broadcast. For a composite video test, I connected a DVD player and started a movie; selecting the composite video source in the SlingPlayer application showed the player output, although it had no support for IR remote control of the portable player.

[caption id="attachment_331" align="aligncenter" width="201" caption="Playback of a DVD through the Slingbox Solo using composite video."][/caption]

Of course, since analog TV is essentially no longer available (maybe some low-power local stations), people with old analog devices need to use a digital-to-analog converter box to view over-the-air broadcasts. I dug out one of my converter boxes and connected the composite and audio from the converter to the Slingbox Solo inputs and attached the IR data blasters near the pick-up sensor and an old rabbit ear antenna was connected to the converter.

Using the SlingPlayer to view the output, I manually configured the converter box to scan for HD channels. Once configured to display the local stations, I was able to capture some sample video using both the SlingPlayer and through the web browser access via the sling.com web site. When I tried to view this remotely, I found a problem - the converter box has a time-out feature that turns it off if you don't change channels or otherwise provide some periodic activity.

The converter box is not one of the devices immediately supported by the Sling software; information on customizing a remote control is described in the Sling User Forums, and many custom device files have been created by users with hardware necessary to "capture" the IR remote control code sequences in a usable data format. Locating a custom driver file from the manufacturer of the converter box took some searching, and was not for my specific model. Once I got it properly installed however, it works fine and allows me to turn the box on and off, change channels, etc. through the Sling applications.

[caption id="attachment_333" align="aligncenter" width="252" caption="The browser add-in application allows you to control and view your media over the Internet, by logging into the sling.com web site."][/caption]

 

[caption id="attachment_332" align="aligncenter" width="205" caption="The SlingPlayer is designed for configuring and local area network access to your Slingbox."][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_334" align="aligncenter" width="240" caption="On the Macintosh side, the SlingPlayer allows the user to setup and view streaming media over your local network."][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_335" align="aligncenter" width="240" caption="The browser add-in does have one OS limitation, requiring OS X 10.5 or higher to run."][/caption]

 



[caption id="attachment_338" align="aligncenter" width="220" caption="Sling Media also has mobile phone applications for iPhone, iPod touch, Windows Mobile, Blackberry, Symbian, and classic Palm OS devices. You can try the application free for the first 30 days, after that, you must purchase a registration code for $29.99 to continue using the player."][/caption]

A software-only solution can be found at www.orb.com. Orb installs a client on your home XP or Vista Media Center system (that's necessary for the live TV feature) and then, like sling.com, uses a browser login to their site to link you with your home system over the Internet. In addition to live TV, you can access media already stored on the home system, including, pictures, documents, audio files, video, etc. There is even a file browser feature that lets you explore drives and folders and download files to your remote.

If you have a data-blaster device integrated in your Media Center system or as an option to your tuner card, then you would have the same remote control capability as a Slingbox. In many cases (not all) Orb can control your Media Center tuner directly, allowing you to view live TV or remotely schedule or start the system recording a show.

If Media Center is running, Orb can give you the ability to terminate the application to take control of the tuner. Control and playback is managed through an Internet browser connection and then launches and streams media directly to Windows Media Player or Real Player. Orb recently added iPhone to the supported device list with the OrbLive today application ($9.99 in the App Store).

[caption id="attachment_341" align="aligncenter" width="157" caption="Orb allows you to navigate your media through a browser window, and then view live TV or play media remotely through a supported player on the device."][/caption]

Data Recovery and Securing Your Personal Information

[caption id="attachment_315" align="aligncenter" width="257" caption="Erasing files is not enough. "][/caption]

It's getting dark outside; do you know where your data is?
Although various operating systems handle file allocation and directory organization differently, they all pretty much do the same thing when it comes to erasing data. To keep the process simple and fast when a file is "erased", the name is usually modified and the portion of the drive where the content is actually stored is simply made available to store new information on.

In other words, your data is not "gone" when you erase a file. Similarly, when you format a drive or even perform a full system recovery, data can still exist on the drive where new information has not been copied.

Data Recovery programs vary in their sophistication, from something as simple as un-erasing deleted files to scanning the "unused" data space for recognizable data. In either case, the program can only work as long as nothing has overwritten the information you are trying to recover.

Software programs such as RecoverSoft Data Rescue PC (Prosoft Engineering, Inc.), Recover My Files (Get Data) and Search and Recover (Iolo), typically have simple un-erase capability if the drive is partitioned as FAT, or can scan a drive looking for data still hiding in unused data areas.

Prosoft Engineering has a Mac and a Windows version of their Data Rescue software. Although, in some cases, the utility may not even need to recognize or specifically support the operating system, allowing it to find information on Linux, Macintosh, Windows, or other partition types.

[caption id="attachment_316" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Iolo Search and Recover 3 includes tools to make exact image copies of your drive and to perform quick or intensive file recovery of a drive."][/caption]

If the drive is physically damaged such as where the electronics have failed or the motor no longer spins, then these software programs cannot help at all. Under these circumstances, your only real alternative is to send the drive off to a company that can try things like replacing or repairing the defective electronics.

If you have the money and the need, they can go to the extreme, and physically remove the data platters from your drive and place them in an functioning unit to access the data. This type of clean-room recovery is usually very expensive, but may be worthwhile if your information is truly irreplaceable.

[caption id="attachment_318" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Physical damage to the drive platters makes it difficult to recover any data, even if the platters were to be moved to a functional drive mechanism. The damaged platters are likely to immediately destroy the heads in the new drive, and make the surface damage even worse."][/caption]

Physical damage to the drive platters makes it difficult to recover any data, even if the platters were to be moved to a functional drive mechanism. The damaged platters are likely to immediately destroy the heads in the new drive, and make the surface damage even worse.

It's not unusual for a drive platter transplant to cost users $1500-$2000 to recover their critical corporate data. If a head crashed and physically damaged the disk, it may not matter how much money you are willing to spend... damaged platters are generally a lost cause for recovery.

Some conditions can make it difficult for full recovery. What can you do to make recovery more successful or at least can minimize the degree of loss?:

• Stop saving to the drive. The most important condition is that no new data be saved on the drive until you can run a recovery program. Once your old data has been overwritten with new information, recovery is no longer really an option.


• Defragment your drive regularly. Depending on the type of file system and how large your files and drive are, fragmentation of your data could result in only partial recovery or of corrupted content. Performing a regular defragmentation of your hard drive keeps the data in your files contiguous on the disk, and therefore, much easier to recover.


• Don't encrypt files, or keep unencrypted backups of critical data.
  File encryption may protect your data from prying eyes, but it scrambles the contents of the data file, this would probably reduce your chances of recovery, at least where the application tries to identify file types by scanning for specific data headers.

Tips to improve your chances of recovering a file:

• Attempt recovery as quickly as possible. The longer a file goes unrecovered, the more chance that some other data will be saved over the top.


• Don't install, create, or copy anything new to a formatted or re-imaged drive.


• Recommended: If you have software like Symantec Ghost, or Acronis True Image, make an exact image copy (sometimes called a forensic copy) to an identical or larger drive. This gives you an additional backup to work with if things don't go well with the original drive. (Recovery programs should not alter the content of the source drive; having an exact copy provides some insurance against Murphy...)


• Have a spare drive or enough free space: recovery of your data will need to be to a target drive of equal or larger capacity. Some recovery programs will scan the source drive and give you an estimate of required space for the files.


• When all else fails - restore a backup (you DO have a backup, right?)

Is your privacy at risk?
The first time you successfully perform a data recovery on a drive and save data you were sure were gone, it can be a great relief. At least right up until the moment it sinks in that anyone with one of these products might be able to access your files, pictures, and other personal information on any drive you left in an old computer.

I already mentioned that formatting a drive or even restoring a factory system image only overwrites only a small portion of the data on the disk. Any unused space on the drive may hold data that can be rediscovered, and copied off for good, malicious, or just voyeuristic reasons.

If it's so easy to recover files you thought lost or erased, what about securing data on hard drives you might have in old computers or external enclosures or even flash drives? There are several different ways to approach securing your old data drives.

1. Encryption: If you actively use or need access to the information, data encryption may be the easiest. File level encryption may be tied to a user login under your operating system. But encryption is more useful when you can move and maintain the scrambled file between systems, drives, and even to optical media or flash drives. Stand alone-encryption programs use a password to scramble and unscramble your information on demand, as long as you have the program installed on the system with the data.


2. Low level format: Another approach is to wipe or low-level format the drive.


3. Physically destruction: The last and most permanent method is physical destruction of the drive media.

Encryption: A variety of options exist to encrypt files. Windows NT, 2000, and XP Pro all have built-in encryption, but this requires that the drive be formatted NTFS. It is limited in that the OS-level encryption is only in place as long as the files remain on the drive.

If you move or copy an encrypted file to another drive, floppy disk, flash disk or optical media, the operating system removes the encryption to perform the copy.

If you have a version of the OS that does not support Encryption, or you want to keep your files scrambled even if they move, then you usually need some sort of third-party encryption program. This will allow you to password protect files or create encrypted archives with multiple files.

Kubicki Turbo Encrypter and TrueCrypt (free on download.cnet.com) are just a couple of the titles available for stand-alone encryption. Encryption is generally overkill for most users, but concerns about private information getting into the wrong hands make such methods more desirable for some.

Secure Wiping: Programs that securely wipe data can help make sure it does not turn up again later. These promise security because they will specifically target the existing file on the drive and deliberately save null or random information over the top before deleting the file. There are degrees of security available with most of these programs; depending on how many times information is written.

Most wiping programs will either use a "government acceptable standard" of scrambling and rewriting the surface of the disk enough times, that not even spies in high-tech laboratories will be likely to guess what had been previously saved on the drive. This presumes that there really do exist high-tech methods that could be used to determine if the random characters of information found on a disk platter really used to be a 1 and not a 0, and putting enough of these back together to make something coherent.

Programs that can securely wipe your data before erasing include DriveScrubber and System Mechanic (Iolo); Older programs like Symantec System Works or Norton Utilities both contained a wipe-info tool; and a quick search of download.cnet.com will even turn up free apps like Blowfish or Simple File Shredder.

[caption id="attachment_320" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Iolo Drive Scrubber is a tool to securely erase all of a drive or just unused space where your personal data might still exist even after being erased or formatted."][/caption]

 

Low Level Format: For the average user, even a single pass recording of (random) information over your files will equal permanent loss in terms of software programs that an average user or even computer hacker might have access. One tool that can be found on many hard drive manufacturer sites is a low-level format utility or diagnostic utility that performs a similar function.

Low level formatting of a drive will write zeros to every sector of the target drive to verify there are no bad or unusable blocks. Some drive diagnostic programs may do the same thing, by destructive (loss of data) testing of every sector with multiple data patterns to make sure the data read matches what was written. Fujitsu, Western Digital, Seagate (Maxtor) all have some sort of low-level format tool or diagnostic you can download that are specific to their brand of drive.

Physical Destruction: If your drive failed, but at one time had private information on it, you won't be able to perform a secure wipe of the information or low-level format the drive. Under these circumstances, about the only way to guarantee that your data does not get out, is to physically destroy the drive.

Have fun! Bash it with a sledge hammer or drill holes through the platters. Some hard drive platters are made of glass rather than aluminum, and will shatter when you "execute" this type of abuse on them.

I usually just like to disassemble them into interesting or useful parts, pulling the platters and magnets out. (I also try to look for anything that might be artistic in appearance for use in a case mod or other project.) Check for local regulations on disposing of electronics and what may be considered hazardous waste in your state or area; this may limit your options a bit.

 

[caption id="attachment_321" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Some hard drive platters are glass, not metal. It's unlikely any data is coming back from the one on the left."][/caption]

Tips to protect your data and your privacy:

• Encrypt data you use or need to access regularly. Stand-alone encryption software is required to use the information on multiple systems, or to move it to different media such as flash drives or CD-ROM without losing the encryption.


• Securely Wipe individual files, wipe disks before disposal, wipe free space periodically to destroy old information.


• When disposing of old drives or systems with hard drives, disk wipe or low level format the drive before reimaging with the factory recovery.


• Networking:
  
  
  
  • Share folders, not drives; restrict access with passwords; use read-only unless changes are needed
  
  
  • Turn off WiFi routers when not in use and use the highest possible security to prevent easy access to your network.
  
  
  
  


• Use both Anti-Virus and Anti-Malware protection and keep your OS current with critical updates


• Data backup anything you cannot afford to lose. Keep copies of your backup media or drives in a secure location.

Digital Camera Photography Tips

When working with a digital camera instead of a film camera, many of the same operational concepts still apply. Even with basic digital cameras, you usually have the ability to adjust when and how to use the flash and you may be able to force different distance modes for close-up, normal, or landscape settings. Some cameras allow you to manually adjust focus, exposure, or select special filter modes.

Every camera I am familiar with has had the ability to adjust image quality settings, controlling the picture resolution and the type of image format the image is saved in. One big advantage of digital photography over film is expense. Since the memory cards are reusable and most cameras can use rechargeable batteries, you can always take a quantity over quality approach, and delete the less-than-satisfactory results.

Check the manual or CD that came with your camera; if you don't know where it is, use the Internet to check the manufacturer's site for a downloadable version. The user manual will not only help explain what features are available on your camera, but almost always includes examples or suggestions for using a particular feature.

[caption id="attachment_276" align="aligncenter" width="253" caption="Check out your camera vendor's web site for photography tips, tutorials, or examples of how to use your camera for the best results."][/caption]

Framing the image
Knowing the basic functions of the camera is always important If you want to achieve the best results in the pictures you take. Although, when going beyond the operational features of the camera, don't lose sight of simple photographic principles. Many issues can be corrected in a graphics editing program, but procedures like image cropping reduce the amount of data in the image, losing detail as a result. Taking a few extra moments to minimize or eliminate issues will result in better images and less work.



[caption id="attachment_279" align="aligncenter" width="223" caption="Taking time to frame your subject can avoid having to remove unwanted portions later. Aiming the camera slightly lower removes the background clutter, keeping the focus on the spring flowers - without losing detail or changing the aspect ratio of the image."][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_280" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Including objects in the frame that create natural borders can direct the viewer's focus and make the picture more interesting."][/caption]



[caption id="attachment_282" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Other approaches to framing include balancing the points of interest in the picture by "thirds"."][/caption]

Flash photography
Adjusting the operation of the camera's strobe can also make a difference in many of your images. If left in automatic mode, the strobe will flash in any low-light conditions. By forcing the camera to use the strobe, you can sometimes improve the lighting of nearby objects or subjects showing deep shadows. By disabling the strobe, you force the camera to adjust exposure settings to the existing light conditions, including the high-contrast dark shadows that may result.

	Most digital cameras with a built-in flash are set to automatically use it as a fill-flash. In moderate light, the strobe may flash to increase the lighting level of foreground objects and reduce shadows. In low-light conditions, a strobe is required to prevent motion blurring from holding the camera at slower exposure speeds. In automatic mode, the strobe may not flash at all in full sunlight or under bright lighting.
	Special flash modes like red-eye flash, can minimize the chance of having your subject's eyes reflecting the flash back to the camera by giving a short pre-flash, causing their pupils to contract before the real flash goes off.
	By turning off the flash, you will force your camera to adjust the "shutter speed" to as long as it needs for the sensor to reach a range of values it considers correct. In low light conditions, this could easily mean that your image will be out of focus or blurred because of very slight camera motion. The easy work-around is to use a tripod. Digital cameras are capable of recording night shots or images in minimal lighting.
	By turning on full flash, your strobe will fire every time, even in bright sunlight. When taking outdoor pictures, the result is a fill-flash that reduces deep shadows on your close-range subjects. Without the flash, you will have bright highlights and very dark shadows, with very little midrange values.

 

[caption id="attachment_291" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Choosing when (what time of day) to take pictures, and deliberately using a flash can result in high-contrast compositions. For example, by waiting until dusk or full dark, a snapshot of spring flowers becomes a high-contrast composition."][/caption]

 

Focus and depth of field
One aspect of digital photography that is often overlooked is the depth of field. This is the term applied to the distance range that is in focus of the camera at the time the photo is taken. As with the flash, the default focus setting on most digital cameras is also automatic. Typically, there will be a set of brackets near the center of your LCD screen or viewfinder that identifies the portion of the image that the camera will attempt to focus on when you press the shutter button part way down.

You can usually use the focus feature to lock on a subject that is not positioned in the brackets when you take the picture. Position the subject in the brackets and press the shutter button part way to have the camera set the focus distance; while still holding the shutter button down, reposition the camera the way you wish and press the button the rest of the way to take the picture. Holding the button part way down, should "lock" the focus at the distance to the subject, keeping them sharp, even if close and distant objects blur.

A few cameras will automatically adjust into close-up mode (sometimes called "macro"), although some require the user to change the capture mode to enable this feature. Close up or macro mode usually allows the camera to focus on objects only within a very close distance to the camera lens. Strobes may be disabled when working in macro mode on some cameras. If this is the case, you may need alternative lighting or a tripod to steady the camera.

	Automatic Focus: The camera will attempt to bring the image into focus using the bracketed area of the viewfinder. Newer cameras may be able to adjust over the entire range of distance from a couple of inches all the way out to "infinity" (or at least "way-over-there".)
	Close Up Mode: The camera has a very restricted range that it can focus on. For example, the HP Photosmart M437 has a close-up range that operates from about 2 inches to a maximum of about 12 inches. Anything that is in the frame outside of this focal range will appear out of focus.
	Portrait Mode: When a camera is configured to use this setting, it will not attempt to focus close-up. The typical focus range would typically be from several feet to no more than 20-30 feet. Both extremely close and distant objects may be slightly out of focus at this setting.
	Landscape Mode: When configured in landscape, objects that are far away will always be in focus. Depending on the lens and optics of your camera, objects as close as 15 to 20 feet will probably be in focus; while objects will become blurry the closer they are to the camera.

 

[caption id="attachment_297" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="In close-up mode, only objects very close to the camera will be in focus. Objects will get more and more out of focus the further away they are from the camera. (This one could use some attention to framing - a slight rotation would have removed the car in the background.)"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_298" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="To bring objects into focus that are further apart than the close-up mode range, try backing away and use the optical zoom of your camera. The depth of field in zoom mode can easily be 3-4 times deeper than the close-up range."][/caption]

A common trick with zoom is to back off far enough that your "close objects" are in focus as well as very distant objects. Remember this when you want to take a picture of something or someone silhouetted against the setting sun or a full moon. Usually, you should be able to get everything from 20 feet out or more to be in sharp focus at the same time.

To get the sun or moon to fill the view, you are going to need more than the typical 3x to 5x zoom found on most cameras. After-market Zoom and telephoto lenses that attach to the front of your camera may help, but will rarely equal the quality of a quality lens designed for the purpose. High-end cameras with interchangeable lenses can support high-magnification telephoto or the zoom lenses as desired. You may even be able to find telescope adapters for some models.

Exposure settings and special modes
Many cameras will have ISO modes that allow the user to adjust the exposure time required, which can be useful, especially under low light conditions. As the ISO number increases, so does the "shutter speed" of the camera at a given light level. This can reduce blurring due to camera motion or to movement by your subject.

	If you don't find ISO (film speed) settings in the camera menus, you may have a shutter mode for "action" or something similar. These modes usually will decrease the exposure time required to capture an image, to reduce blurring of the subject.
	Your camera may also have some sort of electronic stabilization feature that can compensate for minor vibration or shaking of the camera as you snap a picture. If you do not have such a feature, you may need to use a tripod or brace your camera against something solid.

Often, cameras have one or more special modes for use in certain situations or for particular types of photography. These may act like color lens filters -- to enhance certain colors, disable the flash -- but reduce the exposure time, or set some other combination of features. Check your manual to find out how to activate these settings, and what the features your camera may include.

	Burst mode - rapidly take three pictures in a row. This is useful for capturing action or fast moving subjects that move in and out of frame quickly. Some cameras may have a similar "bracketed mode" option that adjusts the exposure slightly over three images. This results in three pictures with slightly different lighting levels, equivalent to one f-stop either way from the optimal setting. This is useful for capturing high-contrast images, where the optimal image may be too bright or too dark to distinguish details.
	Night portrait mode - Enables the flash for close up, but takes a long exposure to capture detail in low-light conditions. A tripod is required.
	Theater mode - Disable the strobe and keep exposure times short to minimize blurring in low-light conditions.
	Sunset mode - Enhances warm colors like yellow, orange and red, similar to a "warming" lens filter.

[caption id="attachment_308" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="To bring objects into focus that are further apart than the close-up mode range, try backing away and use the optical zoom of your camera. The depth of field in zoom mode can easily be 3-4 times deeper than the close-up range."][/caption]

Quality settings
Don't forget your image quality settings. These limit the resolution of your images and the amount of detail that will be visible. If you are planning to print out the captured images on a printer, you want as much detail as possible in the image, so that a sharper photo can be produced.

Choosing a lower resolution or quality setting will allow you to pack more images on the memory card, but always by sacrificing detail. Cropping and digital zoom also reduce the level of detail available in your final image, but starting with the highest possible quality setting may offset these operations somewhat.

The highest setting for your camera may also be a non-standard one. If your choices of quality settings were "low", "medium", "high" or "raw", the camera may compress the image using a JPEG image format on all settings except "raw". The "raw" setting may save the image as an uncompressed TIFF image or as some sort of proprietary uncompressed format that will require you to use software that came with the camera to convert it to some other format before printing or editing.