Art Nouveaux Case Mod Completed

Lighting Effects and Wrap Up

Special Lighting:
When I used the bench light to illuminate the glass window from the inside of the case, I realized that just illuminated fans and other LED lighting were not going to show off the case to the best effect. To give a uniform white-light illumination on the system board side, a dual-lamp Cold Cathode Fluorescent kit was installed with one tube at the top and the second along the bottom edge. The CPU block and pump have blue LEDs and the two 120mm fans I have installed on the radiator and in the bottom of the case are lit with green LEDs.

[caption id="attachment_497" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Two white CCFL (Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lamps) light up the interior system board, cables and tubing."][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_498" align="aligncenter" width="293" caption="The white tube illumination lets the subtle blues and greens add interest behind the textured clear glass side window. "][/caption]

The second side panel and the glass panel in the front bezel get a custom LED treatment. The gap between the side panel and the sheet metal behind the motherboard is not wide enough for a fluorescent tube to fit (at least not while still in its protective plastic tube.) I saw a lighting kit called "The Chameleon" that consists of three potentiometers (variable resistors) that connect to four small multicolor LEDs. The red, green and blue LED in the package each have a single connecting pin, with a common ground. By adjusting the red, green or blue knobs, you can achieve any color illumination you want. To this end, I assembled four LED light bars, each with three red, three green, three blue, and three white LEDs. (I added the white LEDs so I can dial up pure white illumination instead of the rainbow-tint white, and to get washed-out colors like pink, lavender or sky blue.) This many LEDs are going to draw much more current then the four in the Chameleon kit, and rather than build four adjustable voltage circuits, I used a Sunbeam Tech Rheobus fan controller. Each of the LED color clusters on a single bar is connected in series with a 240 ohm resistor to limit the current, and I alternated the colors across the bar to diffuse the light more (red, green, blue, white, red...). Wires from each color group are connected together and then attached to a single output of the fan controller. (I replaced the dual-color LEDs in the fan controller with a single-color red, green, blue, or white LED to indicate the color you are adjusting.) Three of the light bars are placed around the edge of the case behind the second side window and the fourth light bar is behind the front bezel.

There is no lighting in or behind the Thermaltake water reservoir. This makes it difficult to view the fluid level, so I created one more LED bar that connects directly to a 12v Molex disk drive connection. This bar has 12 ultraviolet LEDs that are directed at the rear of the plastic fluid reservoir and create a bright green glow.

[caption id="attachment_501" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Three LEDs connected in series for connection to a 12v DC source (or in this case, a 0-12v adjustable fan controller.)"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_502" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Multicolor LED light bars attach to the fan controller outputs."][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_503" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Three of the light bars are installed behind the second glass window on the left, right and bottom edge."][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_504" align="aligncenter" width="265" caption="The color tint of the side panel and front bezel are controlled with the Rheobus in the upper drive bay."][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_506" align="aligncenter" width="182" caption="Front view with door closed"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_508" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Two views of the right panel illuminated by the color-selectable LED bars."][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_509" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Top panel with white glass insert."][/caption]

Project summary for Nouveaux Mod:  TIME: 119+ hours Time carving and constructing shell: about 103 hours Time assembling light bars (4 multi-colors LED, 1 ultraviolet LED bar to illuminate reservoir): about 6 hours Time installing, removing, and rearranging components, including air-cool solution, water-cool solution, and final installation of lights and wiring: about 10 hours MATERIALS: Cost of craft materials (wood, glass, etc.): $500 Cost of (final) computer components: Motherboard - Gigabyte GA965P-DS3 $125 CPU - Intel Core 2 Duo 6300 $180 RAM - OCZ DDR2 Gold 6400 2GB kit $229 Video - EVGA NVIDIA 8800 GTX $630 PSU - Antec TruePower Trio 650 $119 HDD - WD 500 GB SATA $160 DVD - Samsung PATA LightScribe DVD-RW $35 CDR - Sony PATA CD-RW $25 FDD - I/O Magic bulk floppy drive $15 Atech Flash Card Reader $35 Thermaltake BigWater Kit $140 Sunbeam Tech Rheobus Fan Controller - (LED Light Bars) $22 12" White Cold Cathode Light Kit $10 Green LED Fans (2 pc) $36 FoxConn Diabolic Case [salvage] "Free" Current computer parts value (as of July 2007): $1761

Art Nouveaux Case Mod, Part 5

The wood shell is just about complete except for some final details. Feet were finished out and glued onto the bottom plate. Once the wood glue had set, the bottom panel and feet were lightly sanded and sealed.

Air, Water, or a bit of both?
A second fan hole is made in the bottom of the case and positioned to direct air across the hard drive cage. Using a photocopy fan template, holes for mounting screws are drilled at the corners, and a 4.5" circular opening cut using a hole-saw. Unlike the top fan hole that is positioned under the decorative carving, the bottom fan cuts through both metal and wood. A wire grill is mounted over the opening to keep fingers out of the spinning blades.

After cleaning the case again, the power supply and drives are installed in the bays. Some shuffling may occur before I am done, but this is necessary to figure out cable runs and get the system ready for the first POST. I installed the motherboard in the tray after changing out the North Bridge heat sinks and attaching the frame for a Zalman CPU cooler.

If I was using the factory heat sinks, and Intel CPU solution, everything could be attached with the motherboard installed in the tray or case. Keep in mind that you put a fair amount of pressure on the stock Intel heat sink when you are snapping the retaining clips through the motherboard. I prefer to install the CPU and heatsink into the board before mounting it in the case to avoid stressing or damaging the motherboard later.

Air cooling considerations
The Zalman CPU cooler requires the installation of a two-part mounting bracket with one piece behind the motherboard, and the mounting bracket screwed through the board from the front. Some case designs have an opening in the approximate location of the CPU, allowing you to access the bottom of the board without first removing it from the case. If you don't have this feature (like this Foxconn case), then you will have to pull the system board to attach the bracket assembly.

The Gigabyte motherboard uses passive (no fan) cooling for the North Bridge, South Bridge, and voltage regulators. Some after market coolers are available for common chipsets, but how your manufacturer mounted their stock cooler will determine if you can easily replace this.

The power supply wires are not sleeved except for the motherboard connector, so I used some blue split-loom tubing to cover the multicolored wires running around the case. To add a bit of blue color on the motherboard itself, I replaced the yellow North Bridge heatsink with one of the larger Zalman North Bridge passive heatsinks (just visible below the copper-colored CPU heat sink.)

[caption id="attachment_478" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="POST (Power On Self Test) is done with a Zalman CPU cooler. Exposed wires from the power supply are concealed with blue split-loom tubing."][/caption]

Water cooling considerations:
Water cooling usually requires some sort of CPU bracket or nut-and-bolt configuration mounted through the motherboard first. To install a water cool kit, most everything has to come out of the case again.

Other considerations include where to mount the pump, radiator, and reservoir, and any other custom liquid cool components such as hard drive cooling blocks, flow indicators, thermal sensors, etc. You may need to consider where water hoses must be able to run, especially if you choose to mount the radiator or other component outside of the case.

Mounting everything internally to the case is probably one of the more difficult projects, only because most computer cases are not designed with enough clearance around the fan opening to mount the radiator. You might be able to make room to mount it on the top or front if you are willing to give up drive bay expansion or are ready to rearrange their placement.

Water cooling in the "Demonic" FoxConn case would be difficult without totally removing the plastic hard drive assembly or mounting the radiator on the outside of the case.

Challenges you would encounter installing your first water cool system would probably have hose connections are at the top of the list. Related concerns will include how much hose will you need, getting all of the necessary parts, getting the correct fittings, and also what order should you make those connections.

[caption id="attachment_480" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Reduce the anxiety during a first-time water cool build by using a kit."][/caption]

One way to minimize these issues and reduce or eliminate your anxiety might be to start with a water cooling kit for your first project. This is probably the easiest way to make sure that you are not leaving anything out and that you have a series of step-by-step instructions to work from. Don't get me wrong, even with a kit, you still have to make some choices, like where to mount the radiator and pump, and you will still have several opportunities to cut the hoses too short or too long.

[caption id="attachment_482" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="What's in the Bigwater kit? Clockwise from the bottom left: Instructions, top and bottom brackets, drive bay reservoir, bottle of UV reactive coolant, radiator, CPU cooling block, pump, and UV reactive green tubing."][/caption]

To give you a better idea of what this means, I chose to use a Thermaltake Bigwater kit in the Nouveaux Mod case. This worked out for internal mounting, only because of the severe modifications I made to the side panel and latch. The latch mechanism would have been visible through the glass side panel, so I removed it. To make the radiator fit, I had to take out the small hinge and lock tabs as well. Finally, the only reason the Thermaltake radiator can fit inside is that the clearance around the edge of their radiator is much smaller than those found in the Swiftech, Danger Den, or similar radiators.

One disadvantage of this kit is the small hose size and reduced water flow from the pump as a result. It would be easy enough to add additional components like a flow meter or other cooling blocks, but for this project, I chose to keep it simple by only using the parts included in the kit for cooling just the CPU.

The instructions that come in the kit are tiny, but are illustrated and contain the detailed step-by-step process for installing the components. They start with mounting the CPU cooling block using a metal back-plate, insulated with foam and Mylar pads, and held in place to the system board with a series of bolts with insulating washers and nuts.



Step 1. The CPU is installed, thermal compound spread over the surface, and then the copper water block placed in position. Another bracket holds the block centered and is held in place with four more nuts.

Step 2. The manual shows you how the radiator can be mounted, either inside the case or outside. In either configuration, the cooling fan is attached to move air from inside the case across the radiator's cooling fins. I installed the radiator in the rear, with a green LED illuminated fan attached to the radiator.

Step 3. The reservoir included in the kit is installed an open 5.25" drive bay, keep in mind, you need to be able to slide this out of the bay to fill with fluid. (That turns out to be a real pain with the Nouveaux Case Mod; the front panel must be removed to pull this out far enough to fill.)

Step 4. The pump can be installed most anywhere, so I positioned it in the relatively clear space above the expansion card slots.

Step 5. Cut and connect the hoses. (Shown here in four steps)

Step 5a. Attach a length of hose between the CPU block and the radiator.
I chose to connect the hose to the outside connection to minimize the curve
with the hose. If bent too sharply, it will eventually kink unless you have
something like an internal spring or external spiral wrap to keep the bend
supported.



 

Step 5b. Attach a length of hose between the reservoir intake and
your second connector of the radiator. The reservoir has two connections;
the intake is located higher on the tank, about even, or slightly above the
recommended "full" water line. The output of the reservoir is lower,
and well below the recommended fill level.



 

Step 5c. Connect the reservoir output to the pump's intake. This connection order means that the reservoir supplies a constant source of liquid to the pump, and water returning to the reservoir can release any trapped air bubbles before returning to circulation.



 

Step 5d. Connect the pump's output to the remaining CPU block connector.

 

[caption id="attachment_490" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Add coolant and run the pump until all of the air is out of the lines. Then you are ready to turn on the computer. If you don't clear the air and get the fluid flowing, the CPU can overheat and shut down to protect itself."][/caption]

Step 6. Fill the reservoir, watching for any leaks at the connections. Connect the pump to a power supply and briefly start it to begin moving fluid through the lines and radiator. Add more fluid and repeat. Use a stand-alone power supply to run the pump until you clear all of the air from the line.

BYO Testing Tip: How to turn on a stand-alone power supply  On a computer power supply that has the ATX-20 or 24 pin connector with color-coded wires, you should see a single green wire You can use a paper clip or piece of wire to short this pin to one of the black wires. When the supply is plugged in and turned on, it should power on full without being attached to a system board. Alternative to shorting pins: Use a Power Supply test module. These connect to the 20/24 pin connector and perform the same operation, and also show you with LED lights or meter that the supply is working.

The actual order of flow through your cooling blocks and radiator is not too critical, but there are some common sense rules, such as passing the hottest water (from a block) into a radiator before going through another block, or at least cooling the hottest parts first.

If you were to add graphic card, chipset, memory or hard drive cooling, you might want to use more than one radiator to have the coolest possible fluid passing through the blocks. Using larger tubing and a more powerful pump will also improve the overall efficiency of a water-cool solution.

I would also arrange the flow through the most critical, then the greatest heat sources first. A reasonable sequence would be CPU, then graphics card, then chipset, memory, and last, the hard drives. Hard drives may generate more heat than chipset or memory, but since they usually are air-cooled without any fins, and should be less critical of the need.

Next time: Nouveaux Case Mod wrap up with lighting and effects.

The Quetzalcoatl CaseMod, Part 3

Part 3: Hinged side panels
For the Quetzalcoatl mod, I wanted sloped panels to create a pyramid shape under the head of the feathered serpent cap. To keep the weight down, I used sheets of PVC plastic for the extended side panels, but had to come up with a way to angle the sides uniformly, and to have enough strength to hold up to handling. If I made them stationary, it might make it difficult to access the inside for wiring, lighting, or other purposes. I came up with the idea to hinge the panels, using a strip of continuous piano hinge along the bottom.



A section of piano hinge is cut to the length of the panel, centering the holes as best possible. Angle brackets are riveted to the hinge first. This sets the spacing of the brackets along the panel. Next, mark the holes of where the brackets line up on the panel, and drill holes for rivets. Anchor to the bracket and hinge assembly to the panel with more rivets. (I used pop rivets, and then flattened them with a hammer and anvil to make them extra tight and a lower profile.)

With the hinges anchored to the sides and front, panels of PVC plastic were then riveted to the sections of piano hinge. The hinge creates an adjustable angle between the base and the sides of the case and allows a way to gain access into the cavity as needed. Two sheet metal screws anchor the top of the plastic sheet to the side panels of the case.



To allow air flow into the front and sides of the case, I used some pierced sheet metal and pop-riveted it to the brackets and any unused hinge holes along the bottom edges. The pierced sheet is attached in sections so either of the case side panels can be removed for interior access; only the front section is riveted to the case itself.



Where the angled PVC side panels are attached to the case's panels and can be removed, screws hold the PVC securely to the metal side panel. The front panel is also hinged, but is not removable. Two magnets are hot-glued to the inside of the PVC to keep this panel in place when closed.



The top of the case has a new radiator fan hole that will need to be able to exhaust the heat somehow. This means an open chamber must be made underneath the head of the feathered serpent. I used pop-rivets to anchor a thin PVC plastic sheet in a curved shell, leaving the back open to vent hot air from the top fan. Over this, I formed a piece of steel hardware cloth, folding the edges under.

Two pieces of adhesive-backed hook-and-loop Velcro hold the hardware cloth to the plastic shell. The self-stick Velcro can be held temporarily in place against the screen, but will pull off the first time the screen is removed. To secure the Velcro more permanently, I added a layer of hot glue right through the mesh onto to the sticky side of the tape.

Water cooling



With the basic foundation complete, all of the components are installed in the case, including the CPU and hard drive cooling blocks, and the two radiators and pump are attached to the case.



Hoses were cut to move water from the radiator to the CPU block, from the block to the pump, to the hard drive cooler, and then into the radiators again. While almost any order could have been used, this flow should move the cooled water from the radiator across the CPU first, before being pushed on to the hard drives and back into the radiators. A fill-port reservoir was attached outside on the rear of the case, and the hose connected with a "Y" splitter just before the pump's intake.

I connected a drain hose to the lower radiator hose using another "Y" adapter and an aquarium hose valve to easily drain the system if needed. After adding some water and coolant to the reservoir, I used an external power supply to run the pump to check for leaks and to remove as much air from the system as possible.

Next time: Packing foam

The Quetzalcoatl CaseMod, Part 2

Part 2: Tear it down to build it up. or Removing parts not needed to make space for the ones that are.

Cover up that window!
This case design does not involve windows and fancy internal lighting, so the side case window and fan are removed and replaced with a solid panel. A piece of thin sheet steel is cut to fit the window opening and attached with sheet metal screws. I probably could have left the window in place, but the steel adds some strength and rigidity to the side panel.



As I mentioned in part 1, I will be mounting two radiators inside the case; one will fit in the front air-intake area, so the 3.5" drive bay assembly had to be removed. The second radiator is too large to fit inside the case where the rear fan is located, so I will mount it to the top of the case between the power supply and the optical drive.

To modify the 3.5" drive bay assembly, I drilled out the pop-rivets holding it into the case. With a diagonal grinder, I cut off the lower portion of this assembly and then folded the sides over to form a new bottom plate under the drives. With the six drive bay frame now shortened to a two-bay version, I reattached the assembly with sheet metal screws. Once drive bay modifications were complete, I mounted the optical and floppy drive, but covered them with paper and masking tape to keep dust, metal filings, and other craft-related debris away from their openings.

A simple 120mm fan template
To position and drill holes for installing a top fan and radiator, I took a 120mm fan and scanned it at 600 dpi, then adjusted the gamma until I could easily identify the mounting-hole positions. While I had the image in my photo editing software, I added white circles in the center of the mounting holes, and drew two diagonal lines between the corners to identify the approximate center point of the fan. After straightening and trimming the image, the result was a ready-made pattern to print out for a drill-hole template.

Click here for a pdf file with my 120mm fan image template. To print this at the correct scale, set your printer page setup for 600 DPI (or so that the image size is about 4.75 inches across on the page). When you go to print from Adobe, be sure to set the page scaling to "none". Check it against your actual fan before drilling.



Cutting a new one
A step-by-step process for adding a "blowhole" exhaust fan to the top of a case.



Step 1: Print the template.
Position and attach it to your case where you intend to drill and cut. Because I had to center the fan between the power supply and drive bays, these had to be installed to make sure I had clearance around the fan. Before drilling or cutting, remove your drives and PSU to avoid damage!



Step 2: Drill starter holes.
Even if you have a metal punch, starter holes will help the drill bit to stay in place when you switch to the larger size. I'm using a 1/8" drill bit for starter holes, and then a larger bit that just fits inside the fan holes for the outside four. (Don't worry about enlarging the center hole, the hole saw has its own drill bit.)



Step 3: Cut round hole into case.
Using a 4.5" multi-purpose hole saw for the 12cm fan, cut a nice round hole in the middle of your template.



Step 4: File the sharp edges off with a half-round file.
If you haven't drilled the screw holes larger yet, you can do that now. Vacuum out all of the metal dust you created; you don't want that getting into the drives or where it could short something out.

Fan Hole Cutting Tips:
To mount a fan in a case where you have to cut new holes, scan or make a photocopy of the fan as a template for positioning and drilling the mounting holes. You can use all-purpose or metal hole-saws available from your local hardware store to cut the large opening for air flow:

• A 120mm fan needs about a 4.5" hole


• A 80 mm fan needs about a 3" hole.


• Use a sheet metal deburring tool or a half-round metal file to remove sharp edges left from the cutting process.


• Mount a fan grill or filter over the hole keeps fingers away from any sharp edges as well as out of the moving fan blades.


• If you can find it, plastic edge strip can be used to line the sharp edges of hole.

Next time: Hinged panels

The Borg Cube Case Mod, Part 5

Finishing Touches and Special Effects
I discovered that the Thermaltake water-cooling kit for the CPU has a neat little installation trick. The pump and the small shampoo-bottle style reservoir already had flat steel brackets mounted to them. The water cooling kit includes a number of small, extremely strong magnets that are to be placed between the bracket and the case, holding the pump and reservoir to a steel case without mounting screws. (If you don't have a steel case, there are several thin steel plates and some mounting dots to hold them to aluminum or plastic.)

I liked the concept so much, I took the idea and applied it to holding other things in place. Do you have problems with the little foam mounting-tape pads failing and your lights falling off? Grind a shallow hole in the end block, and epoxy glue small magnets in place. Snap -- and the lights are in place; but they can still easily be removed or adjusted anytime you want.

For the plastic panels and assorted parts inside the case, I just hot glued a number of small magnetic "feet" to the back, and then dropped the whole thing into the chassis. I repeated the process with some plastic drive bay panels by grinding the tabs off and then using hot glue to attach magnets to the back. On the inside of the side panel, an ultraviolet LED was hot glued to a small magnet then positioned to shine on the water flow indicator.

Thermaltake includes some water additive to prevent mold and algae from growing in the tubing and pump; they also recommend adding regular automotive antifreeze 1:10 to the water. This gives it a nice fluorescent yellow-green glow under black light CCFT and UV LEDs.

[caption id="attachment_137" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="The green glow of the pump and hoses is from antifreeze mixed to a 1:10 ratio with distilled water."][/caption]

I started with a Thermaltake Aquarius II water cooling kit and replaced the CPU block with a newer model that works with the Socket 775 processors and mounting holes. I added a flow indicator and the top-mounted drive bay reservoir — which required hose barb adapters to feed from the large reservoir hoses into the smaller tube size used in the kit.

[caption id="attachment_138" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="The Borg logo cover conceals the floppy drive and card reader, top-to-bottom drive bays are behind the cover on the right."][/caption]

The front of the case is a hinged plastic cover, with a small door over the floppy bays, and a large door over the row of 5 1/4" bays. Using a spiral cutting bit in a Dremel tool, I cut the front louvers off of the large drive bay door and glued a rounded vent panel down into the opening. I glued some "chrome" pieces from a toy gun over the ends of a Spiral Liquid Cold Cathode Light and recessed the entire thing down one side of the large door.

For the floppy drive door, I created a Borg "logo" from 1/4" Plexiglas and mounted a piece of red electroluminescent film behind it. This is held to the panel with double-stick carpet tape, and the inverter mounted on the inside of the cover. Both the CCFT tube and the EL panel use 12volts with a common cable running inside to the power supply.

[caption id="attachment_139" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Front of case after painting - doors open."][/caption]

More panels cover the inside of the door to conceal the chewed-up plastic edges. Toy parts, some wire and an old Cyrix 686 CPU with the pins ground off and the core exposed add some interest to the fan side of the case front vents. I mounted a double-plug USB connector in the plastic block, with the cable threading back through the case front to the system board.

For the green cold cathode tube under the chassis (between the wheels), I attached the inverter to the rear of the case with Velcro, and ran the power plug to a Mutant Mods' 3 Port External LP4 Modding Backplate; the tube is held to the bottom with magnets.

CAUTION: don't use magnets to hold the inverters to the case. A strong magnetic field can interfere with the tiny transformer used in these, and could cause it to overheat or do strange things. (Take my word for it - I'm telling you that you will burn-out the CCFT inverter, and could risk a fire if it overheats in the process. Mine didn't burst into flame, but it did get very hot, and it did fail.)

All of the front drive bays are full: The two 3 1/2" bays hold a floppy drive and flash media card adapter. The 5 1/4" bays hold a DVD±RW drive, a CD-RW drive, two SATA hard drives (in mounting brackets), an Internal 5.25" Bay PC Stereo Speaker, and controllers for the fans and lights: Aerocool Gatewatch 4-fan controller and a SunbeamTech Lightbus controller.

Both controllers were already a silver finish, so - a little silver model paint, and so are the rest of the front panels including the speaker, optical drives and bay covers. Once all of the plastic parts have been attached, some flat black enamel paint helps to assimilate them into a uniform whole. Some gold and silver model paint on select panels and box covers completes the case mod appearance.

Next: The Borg Cube assimilates multiple OS versions

The Penguin Palace Mod, Part 4: Lighting FX and System Specs

Ripple Effect Lighting Disk
The appearance of rippling water was created by carving grooves into the top of a ¼ inch plastic disk, then heat polishing the surface. The disk rotates on a tiny gear motor, distorting the light from blue and cyan LEDs mounted under the disk. A scrap molex connector is used to provide 12v DC for the LEDs and 5v DC for the gear motor. LEDs are arranged in series of three, with a current-limiting resistor for each group.

 

[caption id="attachment_51" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Step 1: Grooves are carved into a 4" disk of clear acrylic."][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_52" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Step 2: Polish the surface of the disk with a heat gun."][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_53" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Step 3: Mount the motor and LEDs to the circuit board."][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_54" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Step 4: Create a frosty block to hold the wheel and hide the circuit board, and mount it in the case."][/caption]

 

Additional Lighting
The waterfall and coolant hoses were illuminated by attaching two 15" ultraviolet tubes attached behind the front of the case and a third 12" tube at the rear. I found three cyan LEDs with a distinctive green tint, which I mounted behind the power button at the front of the case. I created an oversized power button with a couple of layers of clear plastic that I carved to look like multiple thin layers in a dome-shaped cover that snaps onto the switch shaft.

[caption id="attachment_55" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Cool Lighting: LEDs in the feet, power supply, and the front power button; Ultraviolet CCFT tubes in front and rear of the case."][/caption]

 

Cool Lighting: LEDs in the feet, power supply, and the front power button; Ultraviolet CCFT tubes in front and rear of the case.

System Specs
The penguin mod wasn’t intended to be my day-to-day system; however I still wanted it to be fully functional for whatever use I chose for it. I kept the required components to a minimum and didn’t install a floppy drive, modem or other expansion devices. If I need a floppy, I can always connect a USB floppy drive.

I did install a DVD-RW drive, a single 250GB SATA hard drive, and a USB card reader. The video card is an EVGA nVidia 8500 and the system board has the usual 10/100 LAN, serial and parallel ports, USB and sound support. The Intel Core 2 6300 CPU is water cooled as is the hard drive.

[caption id="attachment_56" align="alignnone" width="237" caption="Penguin Mod: "Case Closed""][/caption]

 

The DVD and card readers were originally black, so I popped the bezels and tray cover off to paint them a metallic flake silver. Initial comments on the case "picked" at the drive appearance, stating that they were too plain, and did not fit the overall character very well. I listened, and went back to update these with some more ice...

[caption id="attachment_57" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="The drives are further concealed by adding some frosted acrylic to the front. "][/caption]

 

The Thermaltake hard drive cooler is brushed aluminum, so it did not need anything special to fit my designated color scheme. Instead of the typical black radiator, I used a blue one, and installed white Silverstone 120 mm fans on the radiator and in the front of the case.

• System Board: ECS 570 SLIT-A


• CPU: Intel Core 2 Duo 6300


• RAM: 1 GB Patriot 3200


• Video: EVGA nVidia 8500 GT 256MB


• HDD: 250GB SATA


• Optical: Samsung DVD-RW (painted metallic-flake silver)


• Card Reader: USB 7-in-1 Digital Media Drive (painted metallic-flake silver)


• Hard Drive Cooler: Thermaltake (brushed aluminum)


• CPU cooler: Danger Den Socket 775 Water Block


• Radiator: Swiftech Blue


• Fans: Silverstone white 12cm


• Speakers: Computer Expressions Penguin Speakers (modified)


• Cooling Pump: Danger Den DDPDDC


• Waterfall Pump: unknown (salvage)


• Case: Unknown make (salvage)

The Penguin Palace Mod, Part 3: Top Panel, Case Feet and Waterfall Panel Construction

Top Panel Construction
A shallow dome with a central depression around the fill port funnels overflows back into the fill hole. The Danger Den fill port reservoir was glued to the panel before installation on the case, and is centered in the 90mm fan hole that was on the top of the case. I concealed the four screw holes by carving the frosty edges around the dome.

I created feet using four layers of ¼" plastic, which were then carved to look like many thinner layers. Once the feet were glued to the bottom of the case, I drilled holes from the inside and anchored wide-angle blue LEDs inside with a blob of clear hot glue.

Clamps prevented the panel from shifted during gluing, and assorted heavy objects were used to maintain pressure until the glue had dried between the panel and the case.

Case feet construction
I created feet using four layers of ¼" plastic, which were then carved to look like many thinner layers. Once the feet were glued to the bottom of the case, I drilled holes from the inside and anchored wide-angle blue LEDs inside with a blob of clear hot glue.

[caption id="attachment_44" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Foot construction stages: clamping, glued layers, rounding edges, adding thin-layer detail."][/caption]

Waterfall side panel construction
Visualize a hole, since this is where the water must flow. I created a series of short channels zigzagging down and back and forth through the door for the waterfall. Starting at the bottom of the case door, I enlarged the existing 90mm fan opening and then used several layers of plastic to create a reservoir.

The outside edge of each shape is similar to the irregular opening I made from the fan hole. The internal hole of a layer follows the bottom edge of the hole it will be glued next to, but is reduced at the top and sides with each layer. Once the layers were pre-assembled, the completed reservoir section is glued to the inside of the door and held in place with clamps until dry.

[caption id="attachment_45" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Clamps hold a section of the waterfall layers in place while the glue sets."][/caption]

I drilled an exit hole and then tapped it with a 1/8" pipe thread tool so that it is ready for a brass hose fitting to be attached. I repeated the layering process, to build up a section on the outside of the door.

At the top end of the slope, I cut a hole through the door back to the case interior. Next, I added more layers on the inside with a slope in the opposite direction and another hole to the outside of the case.

To complete the waterfall, more layers create the irregular channel sloping down, and end at an upper hole made with another brass fitting for the inflow.

[caption id="attachment_46" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Rear detail showing the improvised slot covers, fan controls and USB penguin speakers."][/caption]

Improvised slot covers were made by cutting a piece of acrylic and attaching it to a smooth steel cover. Fan speed controls are mounted inside the case, with the speed-control potentiometers mounted directly to the bottom of the rear panel.

The Penguin Palace Mod, Part 2: How to Create a Waterfall Effect

[caption id="attachment_29" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Water flowing through the door panel looks milky from tiny air bubbles."][/caption]

The waterfall effect was created by building up layers of plastic on the side panel with openings to feed the water back and forth. One of my concerns was that the waterfall effect would generate turbulence which would cause additional air bubbles flowing through the system. Air is not as effective conductor of heat as water and is undesirable in cooling systems.

During leak testing, I found another problem. The water level in the reservoir would rise as to the highest point in the system, unless I could somehow restrict the water flow in order to prevent it from reaching that level. You can’t have much of a waterfall effect if the display area is filled with water up to a few inches from the top.

One possible solution would have been to use a valve system to limit the flow to the top; however the catch basin would still get backfill from the rest of the system. The solution I finally chose was to use two different pumps to separate the decorative waterfall system from the functional cooling system. This meant that the waterfall doesn't show the flow activity of the actual cooling system, but as a bonus, it could be turned off if it ever got too annoying.

[caption id="attachment_30" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="The waterfall in the door has its own pump, independent of the CPU cooling system."][/caption]

 

I used ¼" plastic sheets to cut the various shapes and built them up in layers using "general purpose plastic glue", which is available in the plumbing section of Lowes. This glue has a slightly milky appearance and can contain tiny air bubbles. To avoid this, use spring clamps to compress and force out the air bubbles between layers.

[caption id="attachment_31" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Several layers are built up with a central opening for the lower chamber of the waterfall."][/caption]

 

For most of the pieces, I used a band saw to cut out rough shapes and then further shaped the edges using a flexible shaft with metal burrs. The icicles along the bottom edges and openings in the centers of the shapes were done with a Dremel tool with a high speed rotary cutter bit.

[caption id="attachment_32" align="alignnone" width="236" caption="A Danger Den fill-port reservoir is glued to a plastic panel before it is attached to the top of the case."][/caption]

 

Building up several layers of ¼" acrylic sheet with irregular scallops and gullies in the edges allowed me to create the icy looking surface that would catch and diffuse the different lighting in the case.

[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxoF5TdYnCc&version=3]