Art Nouveaux Case Mod, Part 4

Glass Windows

With so much effort put into carved wood, I want a side window that harmonizes with the rest of project. Using the dogwood blossom design, a leaded-glass window will fit into the lip carved out behind each of the side panel openings.

[caption id="attachment_457" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Trim a piece of paper to fit in the rear opening and then trace around the edges of the openings."][/caption]

To start, a paper template is cut to fit the opening and held in place with tape. From the outside, the openings are outlined on the paper and a rough sketch of the blossom design added. A more detailed drawing is then made on the paper using sharpie markers to suggest the positions, shape and layout of the glass. For this window, a rectangular grid will be imposed over the dogwood design
to emphasize the window aspect.

[caption id="attachment_459" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The pink glass used for the dogwood petals, has a slight iridescence on one side. Stakes in the glass are oriented to radiate from the centers of the blossoms as much as possible."][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_460" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Copper foil is used to wrap the edge of the glass, and then the are segments tacked in place with a tiny blob of solder."][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_461" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Branches are added to connect the flowers."][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_462" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Clear glass that has a "frost" texture is cut and fit for the rectangular panels. "][/caption]

 

Petals of pink glass are cut and shaped for the blossoms, caramel brown for the branches, and a clear frost pattern for the background grid. Copper foil is wrapped around the edge, and then the individual pieces are tacked together with a bit of solder at points where they touch.

 

[caption id="attachment_464" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="A heavy-duty soldering iron is used to flow solder across all of the foil-taped edges and fill small gaps."][/caption]

Once all of the pieces have been cut and placed, a heavy duty soldering iron is used to flow tin-lead solder over all of the exposed copper foil on both sides of the window. (This also lets me conceal all of the small gaps that we amateurs leave when attempting this type of work.) Brass plated furniture tacks are soldered to the center of the blossoms and then the window is scrubbed clean before mounting into the side panel. Several small wood screws with washers hold the window into the wood frame, then the metal side panel is again attached to the wood panel.

 

[caption id="attachment_465" align="aligncenter" width="291" caption="With the bench light shining in the rear of the case, the mounted window is viewed for the first time. "][/caption]

The second case window was assembled by the same process, starting with a paper template that fits inside the recessed opening on the back of the wood panel. The edges of the panel openings are marked and a flowering dogwood design is roughed out on the paper.

Glass pieces are then cut and ground to follow the resulting design, with pink for the blooms, caramel color glass for the stems, and clear frosted for the background. All pieces are edged with thin copper foil and tacked into place before the final soldering. Using a heavy-duty soldering iron, tin-lead solder is used to cover and bond the segments together into the assembled window.

 

[caption id="attachment_466" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The second window seems to assemble quicker, (practice makes perfect?) this time, with a stylized branch pattern in the clear background."][/caption]

Textured furniture tacks are used to cover the small openings at the center of the petals and suggest the dogwood blossom detail. The finished window is cleaned and installed into the wood panel, held in place by several screws. The metal side panel is attached to the completed wood panel with wood screws.

 

[caption id="attachment_467" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The finished panel is reversed and test-fit in the rear opening of the side panel. Wood screws with washers hold the panel in place."][/caption]

 

[caption id="attachment_469" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The metal side panel is reattached to the wood panel."][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_470" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The galvanized steel of the case blocks most light coming from inside the case. This side will need its own light source."][/caption]

 

Next time: Decisions about cooling

Art Nouveaux Case Mod, Part 3

The Top Panel and Front Door

With the side panels fasted in place on the case, a board is cut to fit on the top of the case between the two side panels. A flowing design is sketched directly on the wood and then rough-carved to shape.

[caption id="attachment_444" align="aligncenter" width="287" caption="On the left, the top panel takes shape after rough carving. On the right, the cental pattern has openwork dogwood blossoms added as a decorative accent matching the other panels (or as a fan guard if left open.)"][/caption]

As I was working on this piece, I saw that the central area lined up pretty well between the position of the power supply and the front drive bays. By routing this out and adding open-work dogwood blossoms, the top panel can now allow for air flow if a top case fan is added. Right now, it makes a shadow-box style dust trap. If I don't install a fan, I will add a piece of glass behind it to match the front panel appearance.

 

[caption id="attachment_446" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Using a scanned image of a 12cm fan as a template, a vent hole is cut between the power supply and drive bays, centered on the new top window. A drum sander on the drill removes the sharp edges left by the 4.5" hole saw."][/caption]

With all of the stationary wood panels completed, everything is attached to the metal case. Any of the panels that will have glass installed will have to come off again, but to complete the door, I need to know the positions of the sides and top to make the best fit.

[caption id="attachment_447" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Views of the finished sides and top, mounted to determine front door dimensions."][/caption]

With the top and side panels attached and in position, a thick length of board is cut to size as a front door. The extra thickness is so I can carve designs on both surfaces.

[caption id="attachment_448" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Once cut to size, flowing curves and flowers are sketched on both sides of the door before carving."][/caption]

 

The outside surface is carved with curves and blossoms like the other panels. Since the quartz cabochon on the front panel is the highest point in the design, and its position is marked on the inside of the door to include a depression carved at that location. Additional curves and blossoms are worked into the design and the inside of the door carved and finished.

 

[caption id="attachment_449" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The outside of the front door after sanding, sealing and buffing."][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_450" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The inside of the door with the hinge attached. Note the depression in the top center; this lines up with the quartz cab mounted in the front panel."][/caption]

A length of piano hinge is attached along one side, of the door, and then the door attached to the edge of the right hand side panel. To keep the door closed, a small magnet is embedded in the door and a second one in the edge of the side panel.

Next time: glass windows.

Art Nouveaux Case Mod, Part 2

The Side Panels

With the front-to-back dimensions now known, I could start work on the rest of the panels. A simple bottom panel is cut and the edge routed to extend slightly below the side and front panels. The base is necessary to support small feet at the corners which will raise the system above the desk or floor surface.

Two different side panels with windows are planned, with an intricately detailed one on the motherboard side. The other case panel will also have a window treatment, but not as detailed. There is a motherboard tray that slides into the bottom of the case, and behind this is a sheet metal shield, placing little or nothing of interest in view through a window in that side panel. I am thinking that the sheet metal may allow for some specialty backlighting in this narrow gap that should show off a second art glass window really nice.

[caption id="attachment_434" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="To create a single large solid wood panel for carving, two boards had to be glued together along one edge. The resulting side panel was trimmed to size, and the pattern transferred onto the wood with pencil and marker."][/caption]

 

 

[caption id="attachment_435" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="From the pattern side, starter holes are drilled for carving openwork detail along the bottom. After flipping the panel over, I used a router to carve a recessed area into the back of the panel so I can mount a glass window between the wood and the steel side panel."][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_436" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Using a handheld jigsaw, I then cut the large heart-shape opening and some of the larger areas for the blossom pattern. (The mesh you see here is the anti-skid rubber mat to hold the panel in place while I was routing out the back. "][/caption]

 

Using a high-speed rotary bit in a Dremel tool, the smaller openings around the flowers are enlarged and cut to shape. Using a selection of different shaped burrs in a flexible shaft, the curves and blossom details are roughed out. After that, it's more carving, lots and lots of sanding, and finally - sealing of the wood. Then, the whole process is repeated with the second side panel.

 

[caption id="attachment_437" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The pattern is carved into the surface of the wood, and details are roughed in using different carving burrs."][/caption]

 

To hold the wood panels to the case, they will be attached to the original sheet metal chassis panels with four or five screws. Before final attachment of the wood side, a custom window hole must be cut in the metal panel to allow light to come through the windows.

 

[caption id="attachment_438" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="A plasma torch makes quick work of cutting an irregular opening through the sheet metal panel."][/caption]

By attaching the wood to the the metal panel, the edges of the carved openings can be scratched onto the painted surface of the metal panels. The incomplete pattern of outline scratches is completed in a connect-the-dots fashion, to create the guide to cut a window opening. With the outline now clearly marked on the painted surface, the wood is removed. The metal panel goes outside for a close encounter with my handy-dandy plasma torch, quickly cutting out the window openings.

Next time: The top panel and front door.

Introducing the Art Nouveaux Case Mod

The Front Panel

Last year at this time, I was working away on the Egypt Mod case. With travel back and forth to our new North Jersey Micro Center, I seem to have had less time to spend messing around on a new case modification. However, I have not been entirely idle, as I have been trying my hand at wood carving. Besides, with the warm weather, it is much nicer being down in the nice cool basement...

My latest project is inspired by the flowing drapery and organic aspects found in art nouveaux design. Now, I'm not a carpenter by any stretch of the imagination, but that won't stop me from creating what amounts to a fancy wood shell that depends on an existing case shell to provide support and the mechanical functionality of a desktop case.



To tie the project elements together, I decided to incorporate flowering dogwood blossoms into the design of the wood panels and windows. I want the natural wood grain to be obvious, and it should also fit with a color scheme of pink and white. I settled on Bubinga for the wood, and obtained a nice selection of this "African rosewood" from the neighborhood Woodcraft store.

[caption id="attachment_411" align="aligncenter" width="228" caption="The Foxconn Diabolic case before"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_413" align="aligncenter" width="293" caption="The Foxconn Diabolic case after"][/caption]

System case: I started with a Foxconn TH 202 series chassis that I saved back after one of my system upgrades. Foxconn makes some very nice cases where you can install most of the components without the need of any tools at all. Their outside shells are well-finished and have a certain flair, in this case (sorry, no pun intended) with their "Diabolic" theme, it's complete with glowing eyes, horns, and even a toothy grill over the front USB & audio connections.

My first step was to strip off all of the plastic parts, windows, and trim pieces to take the case down to the basic metal shell. Because the drive bays were designed to position the drive out through the front of the plastic bezel, I need an extension to my case for the same purpose.

[caption id="attachment_414" align="aligncenter" width="246" caption="To attach and support a new wood front panel, a frame of Bubinga wood is attached to the chassis with angle plates."][/caption]

I want a solid door to cover the front bays, but also decided that decorative openings for the drives and front panel should be and integral part of the project. To support a new front bezel, I added a rectangular frame and anchored it to the case with a couple of 90-degree angle plates.

[caption id="attachment_416" align="aligncenter" width="242" caption="Making the template for the front panel. Paper over the opening and light from the rear allows me to rough-position the drive and front panel openings."][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_417" align="aligncenter" width="180" caption="The decorative carving template is based on the grid template and defines the irregularly-shaped openings for the drives and USB panel."][/caption]

 

I created a wood grid to fit snugly into the opening to support the new front panel. A couple of wood screws through either side of the frame, prevent the grid from shifting or being pulled out.

[caption id="attachment_418" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Clamps hold the grid to the roughed-out front panel during gluing."][/caption]

A panel of 1/4" Bubinga is trimmed to the size of the frame, and then openings for drive bays and the front panel connections were marked and cut through the panel. The grid is then glued to the front panel before carving and finishing the surface.

[caption id="attachment_424" align="aligncenter" width="184" caption="The front panel with roughed-out openings is test-fitted in the front bezel frame."][/caption]

 

With the openings roughed out and the position and dimensions now defined by the retaining edge, a design for the front is laid out in actual size with paper and pencil. This template is then glued to the board with rubber cement and the design was then cut into the wood using a Dremel tool and a sharp burr.

[caption id="attachment_420" align="aligncenter" width="190" caption="The design template is glued to the panel with rubber cement. This will peel off easily once the pattern has been transferred to the surface by carving right through the paper."][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_421" align="aligncenter" width="155" caption="Front panel with the basic design carved through the template. Note the remains of the paper template in the flowers that are still attached to the open work area."][/caption]

For the openwork dogwood blossoms, a high speed rotary cutting bit was used,and then a variety of burrs to shape the detail. I could not proceed with the sides, top cap or base until this step was complete, since I won't know the exact dimensions until the bezel was installed and roughed-out.

[caption id="attachment_423" align="aligncenter" width="265" caption="Finishing touches: Frosted quartz for the front panel LED indicators, a wood power button, and translucent white glass behind the open work carving."][/caption]

 

Integrated into the bezel design are a (wood) power button and a frosted quartz cabochon, which will diffuse the LED light for power status and hard drive activity. Once I had the openings designed into the pattern, holes are carefully cut into inserts that are mounted in the bezel's support grid and the power switch and LEDs are hot-glued into place. Hot glue should be secure enough to hold, but flexible enough that it can be torn out if switch or LED needs replacement.

Thin wood veneer is glued over the front panel connectors and carefully trimmed with an Exacto knife to expose the USB, audio and FireWire ports. A single piece of translucent white glass is trimmed and installed behind the carved blossoms in anticipation of some specialty lighting to be added later.

Next time: side panels

The Quetzalcoatl CaseMod, Part 6

Part 6: Surface texture and coloring
For the surface detail and texture, I am using a commercial paper mâché product called Celluclay. Celluclay is available in a gray (unbleached) or white (bleached) from most hobby and craft stores. To color or tint the material, just add some water-based tempera paint to the mixing water. Add the paint and water mixture first, and then add additional water while mixing until you achieve your desired clay-like consistency. You can easily paint the paper mâché when dry, but this way the color goes clear through, and not just on the surface where cracks or scrapes could show.

[caption id="attachment_264" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Water-based tempera paint can be added to the water to color-tint the mixture. "][/caption]

 

Work the material to break up any lumps or dry spots, and then start spreading small amounts over the foam. Try to keep the thickness down to a quarter inch or less to improve drying. At this thickness, the material should dry almost completely overnight, and be ready for another coat the next day. You can store any mixed Celluclay you have left over in a zip-lock bag for perhaps a day or two, after that you risk having it get moldy.

[caption id="attachment_265" align="aligncenter" width="234" caption="Spread the paper mache mixture over the surface of the foam in a thin layer, working it into the cracks and surface of the foam."][/caption]

You can build the material up slightly thicker for shaping, or work detail into it using standard plastic, wood, or metal clay sculpting tools. Dip them in water and then wipe with a paper towel to remove any mâché that dries out on the surface. Once the material is dry, you can drill, carve, sand and paint the surface.

[caption id="attachment_266" align="aligncenter" width="245" caption="The foam head and base are completely covered with the tinted Celluclay mixture and allowed to dry. A thin coating of "natural" Celluclay (sans paint) whitens the teeth."][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_267" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Glyphs for the side panels of the case are formed from tinted brown Celluclay on a sheet of PVC plastic. Once dry, these will pull right off the sheet and are ready to be hot glued to the sides of the case."][/caption]

 

[caption id="attachment_268" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Glyphs reference"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_269" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The feathered serpent panel, based on some glyphs found on the Internet."][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_270" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The Quetzalcoatl panel, based on a book illustration."][/caption]

After gluing the glyphs onto the side panels, I finished installing some LED lighting and effects, and then sealed the paper mâché shell with a coat of epoxy. Several coats of spray-on clear coat might work as well, but the epoxy adds some additional rigidity to the surface and binds everything together. (Scrubbing it with a steel brush restores some of the matte finish.)

[caption id="attachment_271" align="aligncenter" width="219" caption="The finished Quetzalcoatl case mod."][/caption]

The Quetzalcoatl CaseMod, Part 5

Part 5: Electrical - Front panel switches and lights

The time to think about any lighting effects, switches, or other connectors you want to make available through the modified shell is during its rough construction. If you wait to run wires after you start finishing the surface, you may have problems getting the wires concealed or run where you want them to come out. The best solution is to plan wire runs while you are still gluing the foam or add tubing or channels to run wires.

For a power switch or reset switch, remember that you do not need to limit yourself to the momentary contact switch buttons that came with the case. As long as your switch is "off" in its normal position, you can use it as a replacement for the typical front panel computer buttons.

[caption id="attachment_251" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Any n/o (normally open) momentary contact switch will work as a power or reset button."][/caption]

Some of the switches I had to choose from include an LED-lighted pushbutton, the original front panel buttons from the RaidMax case, a keyboard style switch, and a doorbell switch. Any of these could be used to power-on or reset the computer. I selected the keyboard style switch for its square design.

[caption id="attachment_252" align="alignnone" width="269" caption="Two of the switches are hot glued to the back of the front panel. The key caps are just flush with the front surface."][/caption]

Playing around with some different styles of buttons, I decided on using a set of generic square-keyboard button style switches, and then hot-glued some additional key caps to the front panel to repeat the pattern. To make the switch caps all the same color, and to fit in with the new case style, the caps have been blacked-over with a little acrylic paint.

[caption id="attachment_253" align="alignnone" width="276" caption="Additional key caps are glued to the front to repeat the pattern."][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_254" align="alignnone" width="264" caption="Cardboard is glued over the Styrofoam to prepare it for the paper mâché coating."][/caption]

 

Two large red LEDs are installed in the eyes to signal hard drive activity. Inside the mouth, I installed a single red LED Meteor Light kit that had been removed from its plastic tube and reconfigured into three side-by-side segments.

[caption id="attachment_255" align="alignnone" width="171" caption="The control buttons for the Meteor lights can be seen on the back of the head and in one of the expansion slots. The controller for the bottom LED strips is the small blue box stuck to the back of the case."][/caption]

The control circuit for the mouth light and the wiring for the eye lights are embedded in the back side of the head, with a removable cable running into the case for power and the HDD pin connection. Inside the bottom of the side panels, I mounted two of the red LED Meteor Lights with their connections extending out the rear of the panels to connect to a second control circuit.

[caption id="attachment_256" align="alignnone" width="225" caption="A view of the case showing the red LED Meteor Lights in the mouth and with the red LEDs (HDD activity) in the eyes."][/caption]

Mutant Mods Red Meteor Light Kits are case lighting kits that use low-voltage LED lights (12 in a tube) with a electronic controller that can generate multiple lighting effects such as sequential fading or blinking.

Next time: Skin of the beast -- paper mâché surface texture and coloring

The Quetzalcoatl Case Mod, Part 4

Part 4: Packing foam, it's not just for packing stuff anymore.

Last time, I outlined the process I used for modifying the side panels, adding a top air duct, and adding a hinged front panel. A metal mesh "hardware cloth" screen was bent to fit over the top of the case and held in place with a strip of Velcro tape. Hot glue over the back of the sticky side of the Velcro tape anchors it firmly to the screen.

[caption id="attachment_224" align="alignnone" width="300" caption="Pieces of packing foam are hot glued to the mesh."][/caption]

To seal the open mesh, I covered the inside of the screen with duct tape. The tape creates a barrier when I hot glue foam to the outside of the screen, and at the same time anchors the hot glue through the mesh to the duct tape lining.

[caption id="attachment_225" align="alignnone" width="267" caption="The DVD drive mounted in the top bay is covered with paper to protect it. The head of the feathered serpent is constructed to position the drive inside of the mouth. "][/caption]

I use single-edge razor blades to cut long strips of closed-cell packing foam to fit. Hot glue is run along the sides and the foam is then positioned in place. I'm using up some dark pink hot glue since it has a low-temperature melting point. I can't use my extra-strength hot glue because it is high-temp and melts this type of packing foam.

[caption id="attachment_226" align="alignnone" width="253" caption="Openings can be left in the foam, as long as the surface can still provide support for the shell."][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_227" align="alignnone" width="284" caption="Carving starts to reveal the final form of the serpent."][/caption]

After the shell has been roughed-out, the edges can be rounded by trimming away the excess. Fine detail is not important, since I will be covering the foam with a layer of paper mache.

[caption id="attachment_228" align="alignnone" width="260" caption="Once the general shape is "roughed" out, start carving with razor blades or hobby knives. Save the larger scraps of foam to fill holes or add detail. "][/caption]

This is the slippery "plastic" foam that does not soak up water easily. For paper mache to stick to the foam, the surface must be rough. Any shiny, slick, exposed surfaces are shaved with a razor blade to expose the open cells.

[caption id="attachment_229" align="alignnone" width="279" caption="Smaller pieces of foam were cut and glued edge-to-edge to form the radiating "feathers" of the mane. "][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_230" align="alignnone" width="249" caption="Contact cement is used to stick thin cardboard to the PVC side panels. Blue Styrofoam sheet adds border and front panel detail."][/caption]



Borders of thin blue Styrofoam sheet are glued to the side and front panels. A row of "steps" help disguise the combo flash card reader and floppy drive that extends through the front panel (covered in pale green paper in the image.) To create a surface that the paper mache is going to adhere on, additional cardboard sheet must be glued over the Styrofoam.

Next time: Electrical connections and fine detail