Egyptian Case Mod - Part 4 (Overview)

A scarab mouse and system overview

Building a better mouse? The Egyptian theme might be considered a bit ponderous
and dry with all of the historical references, no matter how fancy its jewels
or ornamentation. I'm not saying that adding a themed accessory will lighten
the mood, but it seemed like a good idea at the time.


Starting with a basic wireless mouse...


Bright blue hot glue is built up on the battery door and buttons. Since the
surface of the mouse button is rigidly attached at the back, and uses the flexibility
of the plastic instead of a hinge, I need a shield of clear plastic (cut from
the package bubble pack), to allow the buttons to click when I'm done.


Layers of hot glue are built up to create the shape, and then smoothed down while
the glue is still fluid. The edge of the glue gun is used to create the stepped
ridges on the wings (AKA battery compartment).


The blue hot glue used on the scarab-style mouse closely matches the color of
lapis.


A left-over limestone tile has non-skid rubber glued to the back, and the inlayed
carnelian, malachite, lapis, and brass rods are added to match the door detail.



The completed case mod with guardian

Product summary:

Rock Solid: Back at the beginning of this article I gave the case weight
as 34 pounds. With the spiffy new limestone slab skin, the system now weighs
over 96 pounds! I have removed the side panels at times to move it from room
to room when a furniture dolly is not available. (Lugging the thing up and down
stairs is the worst...)


The system board is a low-power notebook style design in a standard desktop
format.

Memory is SODIMM and the CPU is a low-power Mobile Intel Core Duo.

Motherboard used: AOpen i945GTm-VHL Core Solo/Duo 479 ATX Motherboard. This
board is one of AOpen's MODT series (Mobile On a Desk-Top),
and uses a low-power Mobile Intel Core Solo or Core Duo socket 479 CPU. It also
supports up to two 1GB DDR2 SO-DIMM memory modules, so is limited to 2 GB maximum RAM, and shares some of that with the onboard video. The board does include
some support of the new Intel VIIV platform, but only if you are installing
Windows XP Media Center Edition. This is not a high-performance gaming system,
but could easily work as a solid business or home entertainment solution. One
thing I do like about the board is the low-power operation and therefore the
minimal amount of heat produced. AOpen included a low-profile CPU heat sink,
although this board will take a standard socket 478 style cooler just as easily.
The result is a system that runs very cool and quiet, without having to resort
to huge heat sinks or water cooling.

What I didn't care for was that the floppy and parallel port headers on the
board are notebook-style small-pitch headers. This means the pin size is slightly
smaller and the spacing is closer together, so you cannot use standard off-the-shelf
cables; AOpen does not include a compatible cable or adapter for these devices.
I ended up making a floppy cable adapter from a 2.5" to 3" hard drive
adapter (works fine), and found an adapter for a Shuttle Computer that connects
to the parallel port header (which should work, but I have not tested yet.)
There are two standard 9-pin serial port headers on the board, so these may
be a little easier to come up with adapters for those of you who, like me, may
still use some legacy devices.



All five of the drive bays are filled with something. Wires to the hard drive
LED, Meteor LEDs and the power switch are visible with the lower door open.
The aluminum is painted brown in this image, I later covered this with some
stick-on vinyl floor tile that closely matches the limestome appearance.

The five drive bays hold:

1. DVD-RW optical drive


2. CD-RW optical drive


3. Fan speed control panel (for front, rear,
   CPU, and power supply)


4. Matrix MX2 LCD programmable info panel


5. 3.5" floppy drive with a (red LED
   reset button on the left, and two USB ports on the right of the adapter
   frame.

Matrix Orbital MX212 Blue LCD with Black Face. This is a programmable USB
panel similar to those used on some Media Center PCs. The software included
with the panel allows the user to program the display with personalized messages
displays of system settings, diagnostic monitoring, or current activity such
as Audio Track or TV Tuner details just for starters. I haven't played with
all of the features yet, but it also appears that temperature sensors are
available that can connect to several jumpers on the rear, and there are also
several fan speed control and monitoring connections as well.

---

Egyptian Case Mod: front door view


Egyptian Case Mod: hunt scene side view


Egyptian Case Mod: chariot scene side view


Egyptian Case Mod: theme view

Egyptian Case Mod - Part 3

Aging the limestone panel carvings

The carved detail in the limestone shows up if you have the lighting just right,
otherwise it tends to get lost since the coloring is only slightly lighter in
shade from the surrounding stone.


The chariot panel with the brass, carnelian, and the vulture and cobra medallions
glued in place.



A portion of the hieroglyphics carved into the chariot panel. The symbols are
arranged top to bottom, left to right, and may be reversed to face the same
direction as any large carving is facing.

To antique the appearance and add contrast to the details, acrylic paint is
scrubbed over the surface and into the carving with a fine-bristle toothbrush.
A damp paper towel is then used to wipe the excess off of the surface, but enough
paint is left in the grooves and pores of the limestone to add color and contrast.
The paint step can be repeated with additional colors of paint to shade different
areas in color, or where too much of the previous paint was wiped off. On this
panel, I used dark brown for the hieroglyphs, black on the horses and dogs,
and a reddish-brown on the chariot and driver.


Acrylic paint is rubbed into the carvings and then wiped off with a damp cloth.


The finished chariot panel. Hieroglyphs are tinted brown, the chariot and
rider are tinted red-brown, and the horses and dogs tinted dark brown.

On the doors I wanted to get really fancy. I pulled several designs from
some Egyptian jewelry, one featuring the winged-goddess Nut, and the other
with baboons and a scarab beetle.




I cut a channel around the outside edges and glued alternating square cut
malachite, carnelian and lapis cabochons. Short lengths of brass rod were
placed between the cabs to add interest to the pattern, adjust the spacing
slightly, and to reduce the total number of stones I would have to cut.



A channel cut around the edge of the top and bottom door panel is filled with
alternating carnelian, malachite, and lapis, with spacers of brass rod. Square
cabochons and rods are glued into place with clear epoxy.

The inlayed medallions would be the focal point for each of the doors, but
the lower door also had to somehow integrate some LED lighting and a power
switch. By using an all-black plastic push button, and a small piece of jet,
I made the power button appear as a cartouche symbol below the scarab. To
conceal Power and hard drive lights, I chose carnelian and mother-of-pearl,
both of which are translucent and would allow light to pass through from the
rear. The bezel settings for these would be open on the back, and a hole drilled
through the limestone and brass door to mount bright white LEDs.

On the lower door, I recreated a medallion with two dog faced baboons facing
a scarab beetle. The three figures are placed on a boat of green malachite;
the baboons are positioned with mother-of-pearl (shell) disks symbolizing
the moon above their heads, and a carnelian sun disk over the scarab. For
additional contrast, I used nickel silver alloy for the moon and scarab and
brass for the rest of the channel work. The lapis lazuli for the scarab was
roughed out, but not set until after the rest of the medallion had been ground
and polished flat. Then the scarab sections were hand carved and polished
in place to give the beetle a raised 3-d appearance.



The baboon and scarab medallion are ready to glue into place. Mother-of-pearl insets
sit above the heads of the baboons. The carnelian and mother-of-pearl settings
have an open back to allow light to pass through the stone and shell material.
The carnelian sun symbol has its backlit LED connected to the hard drive,
and flickers with the drive access. The white shell moon symbols are attached
to a meteor-light LED controller that allows you to select from a variety
of different glow or blink patterns.



The completed lower door with baboon-scarab medallion is in place. Two carnelians
are inset in the sun symbols along the bottom. The black power button blends
into a cartouche design mounted above a small oval piece of jet. The LEDs
behind the mother of pearl moon symbols were set to a slow fade on and off
cycle for the picture.


Checking the scale and position of the channel pattern for the Nut inlay.


The completed upper door with the vulture-winged Nut figure and gold-leaf
sphinxes.

The upper door has a medallion recreation of the goddess nut with vulture
wings spread. Nut's wings are malachite and lapis; her body is carved lapis
lazuli with mother-of-pearl, turquoise and red coral trim by the feet; Nut's
hair is carved jet and the face, arms and feet are opal. To provide some additional
bling, the two carved hawk-headed sphinx figures have been given a covering
of gold leaf.



Close up of the winged Nut figure, showing the hand-carved opal, lapis and
jet in the figure. Her robe has a band of mother-of-pearl and an inlay of
turquoise, red coral and mother-of-pearl along the bottom.



To "top it off" I needed a suitable guardian. Enter, one stuffed
Anubis, guardian of the dead, in his jackal (dog) form. (from the Chicago
Field Museum)

Next time: A suitable mouse and system build summary.

Egyptian Case Mod - Part 2

Hieroglyphs from the Book of the Dead

With the limestone shell complete, it was time to get creative. Before starting
this part of the construction phase, I had sifted through numerous books on
Egypt, Egyptian Jewelry, Tutankhamen, hieroglyphics, and did lots of Internet
photo searches for inspiration or possible source material. Rather than depicting
some static deities just standing or sitting, I decided on a composite hunt
scene for one of the panels and a partial recreation of a Tutankhamen chariot
scene for the second. For some "authentic" hieroglyphic text, I selected
several translated passages from "The Egyptian Book of the Dead" by
E. A. Wallis Budge.

A chariot scene, based on a mirror image of this one, will be carved on one
side panel.


Some of the text assembled from the "The Egyptian Book of the Dead"
to be integrated with the chariot scene.

The first step was to lay out the figures and scenes in pencil, and to draw
grid lines for the hieroglyphs. The hieroglyph text was then copied into the
grid, and then details added to the plants, animals and other figures. Using
a flexible shaft and a small diamond burr, outlines are cut around the figures,
edge lines and text separation lines, and then the hieroglyphs cut. After all
the glyphs were carved, then the details of the figures are added next, with
some shaping done to emphasize the forms.

A hunt scene with elements of several different carvings and designs is laid
out in pencil on a side panel.

Diamond burrs and a flexible shaft are used to carve the hieroglyphs and design
into the surface of the tile. Note that I changed the two eyes of Horus into
one large one before I started carving the scene.


Detail of the Horus / hawk carving with a hole carved out to hold a carnelian
cab.

Once the carving stage was mostly complete, I could get fancy with some
embellishments. First, I cut a round carnelian cabochon to place in the sun
circle over the Ra / Horus Hawk. In the pencil sketch, I started with two
"eyes" but replaced that with a single larger eye instead.

The single eye of Horus is a medallion crafted from brass and inlaid with
malachite (dark green and banded) and variscite (pale green). To make these
gemstone medallions, narrow strips of metal are shaped into channels to form
the design and soldered together. The assembled channel work is then soldered
to a flat sheet, and excess metal trimmed away with a jeweler's saw. Rough gemstone
is then cut and ground to fit like a series of jigsaw pieces. Once a group
of pieces are cut to shape, they are glued into the channel with epoxy. The
surface of the medallion is then ground down flush with the channel, then
sanded and polished. If a section is to be carved in low relief (like the
scroll) this is either left out of the channel during the grinding phase or
carefully avoided and polished out by hand at the end. The finished medallion
is placed on the panel and its outline traced in pencil. Last, the limestone
has a medallion-shaped hole carved to countersink the medallion into the panel
for gluing.


Step one, create the design from flat strips of brass and then solder the design
to a piece of flat sheet.


Step two, cut pieces of gemstone to fit the metal channel and then glue into
place with epoxy.


(Step two continued) The pale green is variscite, the dark green is malachite.


Step three, grind flush, and then sand and polish the inlay. The spiral had
to be hand-polished.

A similar process was repeated with the second side panel; sketching, carving,
and setting medallions and accents. For the chariot panel, I created two smaller
gemstone medallions incorporating icons used to symbolize upper and lower
Egypt. I have a vulture wearing the white crown, and a cobra wearing the red
crown. In addition to the malachite and variscite, I used turquoise, calcite,
lapis, ivory, and coral in the vulture, and lapis lazuli and coral in the
cobra. Accents to the side panel include another carnelian sun and a small
hammered brass dome positioned in the horses' harness.


The vulture and cobra inlays are ready to be filled with the stone inlay.


Turquoise, ivory, malachite, lapis, variscite, red coral, and banded calcite
are inlayed into the medallions. These are set into the stone panel and glued
in place with epoxy.

Next time: Aging the panel carvings.

Egyptian Case Mod - Part 1

Entombment - The Limestone Shell

My project this time around was not one selected for the technology challenge,
but one that I wanted to do just for "artistic" reasons.


A Nzxt Nemesis case before modification, and the completed EgyptMod
case

In the QuetzalMod Feathered Serpent project, I suggested that one did not have
to use anything other than some simple craft techniques to create a unique,
personalized, computer chassis. However, for this project, I applied some of
my more specialized jewelry metalworking and lapidary (gemstone cutting and
polishing) skills. Add a dash of rough stone working, sixty or seventy pounds
of limestone floor tile, and a stuffed dog -- and I created my EgyptianMod case.
Oh yeah, I did add a computer system board and some other components in there
somewhere too.



Starting with a five 5.25-bay Nzxt Nemesis gaming case (it was on sale, what
can I say...), I promptly stripped the case down to the side panels and frame.
There won't be any system board or special internal effects shown off in this
casemod design, so I covered the side panel window with a piece of steel sheet.
In place of the front bezel, I attached lengths of 3/4 inch square aluminum
tubing to extend out beyond the front of the chassis to enclose the drive bays.
Two brass plates were cut for front doors and riveted to sections of piano hinge.
The lower door fastens with a simple cabinet latch, and covers the front fan
opening and provides access for the front panel wires for the power switch and
LED indicator lights. The upper door covers the five 5.25 inch drive bays and
has a strong magnet glued on the outside; a second magnet glued inside the aluminum
tubing creates a hidden magnetic latch. To prepare the case for gluing on the
limestone tile, I used a coarse grinding wheel over the top, sides and front
doors. With the foundation done, I can also take accurate measurements for the
stone tile - time to go shopping!

The tile store suggested using epoxy to attach the tile to metal, but I was
concerned about differences in expansion and contraction of the metal and stone.
I have seen epoxy shear away from metal under just those conditions. Discussing
this with them, I asked about silicon adhesive, which would be much more flexible;
they agreed this should work fine as long as the surface was rough enough to
bond to.


Silicone adhesive smells as it cures, but remains flexible to anchor the limestone tiles.

Using a tile saw with a water cooled diamond blade, I cut 12" limestone
tiles down to fit the two side panels. Four sections are positioned to extend
past the front of the removable panels, out to the edge of the aluminum tubing.
With all of the tiles trimmed and checked for placement, the approximate position
of the panel is marked on the back. (Because I just know people will ask, I
weighed the case with drives and system board in place but before any stone
was attached; before weight = 34 pounds.) Silicon tile adhesive is then run
over the areas where the tile will mount to the case side panel. The process
is repeated for the second side panel, and the glue allowed to cure over night.
With the side panels in place, final width measurements for the top and bottom
tiles can be taken without guessing.


Limestone tile extends past the edge of the side panel to overlap the tubing
on the front of the case.

Before gluing bottom or top tiles, some additional work must be done. My design calls for four pedestal like feet with a decorative curve to the inside edges at each corner. Small squares of tile are cut and glued together with epoxy. Spring clamps maintain pressure
and prevent slipping until the glue sets. Two larger squares are angle-cut
then ground to a curve using a small grinding wheel in a hand drill. Both
parts are then glued together and the outer sides are squared up and the
joints between the layers are emphasized with a small diamond wheel. A hole-saw
was used on the front tile to cut three openings to allow air through the
base into the front intake fan. The feet were then glued and clamped in
place on to the base tiles with epoxy. Once set, then the base tile was
attached to the case bottom with silicon.



Feet are created from two large squares and two small squares of tile glued
together with clear epoxy.



With the pairs glued together, a bevel is ground on two sides of the large
piece. The smaller pair is then glued to the large.



Tiles are cut to extend past the edge of the shell. Holes are drilled for
air flow into the case behind the front bezel. The finished feet are glued
to the base tiles before gluing the bottom tiles to the case.



Gluing the bottom tiles to the case with silicone adhesive.

For the top cap, I wanted a curved edge from the side panel out to a wider
flat top surface. Rather than make this completely solid, I took some of the
scrap from the trimmed tiles and glued these in a stepped fashion. After setting,
I used the tile saw to angle-cut the sides, then a small grinding wheel to
make an inside curve along the layered edge.



Grinding a curved edge into the top cap. Dust from the dry grinding is minimized
with a shop-vac. (Wear a mask and eye protection - it still gets everywhere!)



The top cap is glued to the case with silicone adhesive.

The curved cap was attached to the case with silicon, and then epoxy used
to attach the top tiles to finish off the cap. Note that the weight is slightly
reduced by using just a strip of tile around the outside, with other scraps
stacked in the center to support the final layer of tile.

Next time: Research and carving of the hieroglyphs

Hitch Hiker's Guide Case Mod (AKA "Mostly Harmless") - Part 3

Part 3 - Construction wrap up

Work log 07-26-08

Aaah... it's not POSTing! Don't Panic! There were only a few glitches during
the final stages, most were stupid mistakes, like forgetting to move the Clear
CMOS jumper to it's normal mode position. (Nothing gets the blood pumping like
a failing Power On Self Test [POST] during the last week...) Move that jumper
to the correct position and verify the system board will POST, the video works,
memory is detected, and it should be ready to install in the case.

Component installation includes wedging the motherboard into the case (wow,
was that a tight fit!) Once the system board is in place, wiring up all of the
switches, LEDs, and feeding the cables that cannot be run internally, such as
the combined VGA / USB touch screen wires can proceed. A cable runs from the
big red button to the COM port in the rear; a pair of cheap "sport"
speakers is wedged in beside the fan underneath using some stick-on Velcro.
All exposed cables and some internal ones are concealed with yellow split-loom
tubing, which is dry-brushed to match the case on the external cables. Hard
drives are mounted on the door, and all cables and power connections made to
the components. Installation of the Operating system went well, and all utilities
for the touch screen and Matrix panel seem to be working fine.



The shell's appearance is aged by dry brushing the yellow paint with several
different "dirt" tones.



Internal connections are run from the Guide's touch display (VGA and USB) and
the USB mini keyboard. Wire connections for the power switch to the LED base,
the eject button for the DVD drive, and to the front panel pins for the Hard
Drive and Power LED are made. Power for the VGA display is connected to the
12 volt wire of a Molex drive connection. Split loom tubing hides most of the
loose power cables and should help with air movement inside the case. The small
speakers and bottom case fan can be seen in that oval cut out that was let in
the base panels.

The VGA cable and touchpad USB cable pass out an opening in the rear panel.
External cables are covered with more yellow tubing and dry-brush aged like
the side panels. The Matrix Orbital PLED panel died in the first month of use.
I replaced it with a backup PLED panel, which also died. The current panel is
still a Matrix Orbital panel, but is now LCD, and has been working fine for
several years now.



The USB thumbpad and Matrix Orbital display are connected to a USB connector
left inside the case. An amplifier speaker circuit board was modified so its
on-off button and volume control extend through a rear card slot. (Even though
the video clips are random, they get really annoying when played over and over
during the day. This way they can be turned down or off when not showing off
the case to visitors.) As a late upgrade, the two 40 GB IDE drives were replaced
with two 120GB SATA drives. These are mirrored using the onboard RAID chipset
to provide basic RAID 1 data redundancy.

---

Presenting the yellow, slab-like, Hitch Hiker's Guide to the Galaxy file
server:



A view of the embedded Hitch Hiker's Guide with an appropriate background wallpaper.



The green guy with a glowing red button and text display.



A view of the finished 42 panel.

---

Screen saver: The default screen saver for the internal display started
with the basic Windows slide-show screen saver; the directory it uses for the
source images contains a selection of Rod Lord illustrations (from the original
BBC video series), screen shots from the on-line BBC version of the HHG adventure
game, and several images that I assembled based on text phrases from the game
or related to the HHG universe. Screen shots from the online game were enlarged
to better fill the 800x600 screen size of the guide-display and combined with
text commentary from the game.

After a bit of searching I found another screen saver utility to install that
includes multimedia support. SourceForge.net has a project by Dave Anderson,
appropriately called Daves AV Screen Saver. It still provides the random display
of my screen shots and images, but also will play several animated video clips
with sound that were extracted from the original HHG Television production.



Just some of the screen captures, videos, and extras that came with the Infocom
game that appear randomly when the system is on.

Play Hitch Hiker's Guide to the Galaxy!: As of December 1, 2011, it
appears you can still play the BBC versions of the game. Version 1 was found
at: http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio4/hitchhikers/game_nolan.shtml
and this page includes the link to version 2 at: http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio4/hitchhikers/game_andrew.shtml



The BBC version of the Hitch Hiker adventure game.



The Infocom version of the Hitch Hiker game running in the WinFrotz window.



The red button uses a micro switch with a common, a normally-open, and a normally-closed connection.

Red Button: I removed the micro switch and installed a bright red LED
in the base to illuminate the button, and then replaced the switch. The switch
contacts are wired to a db-9 connector that is plugged into the rear serial
port so that a +5 volt or -5 volt (relative to ground) is passed to the Carrier
Detect signal pin. I wrote a program in Visual Basic that runs when Windows
starts to monitor the serial port's pin status. When a change is detected (the
button pushed) a text message is sent to the LCD display. A timer function can
also change the message after a delay if no one pushes the button during the
preset time period.

How the program works: When a 25-pin COM port is enabled in a Visual Basic
application, pin 20 (DTR) goes 'low' while pin 4 (RTS) stays 'high'. My program
monitors pin 8 (Carrier Detect) and sends a random text message to the Matrix
Orbital display, which also appears as a COM port in Device Manager. The button
connects three wires to the system's (9-pin) COM port: Common goes to CD (pin
1), Normally-Open goes to DTR (pin 4), and Normally-Closed goes to RTS (pin
7). A simple text file contains a list of phrases that are loaded into memory
when the program starts. One of these phrases is randomly selected an sent to
the USB display on a button-push or timer event. The program is written such
that additional phrases could be added to the text file. If the file does not
exist, it will be created the first time the application runs and the default
list will be saved to the new file. A configuration file also is created, specifying
the COM port assignment for the Matrix Orbital display and the Red Button port.

Phrases displayed on the LCD display are limited to two lines of 20 characters each. I compiled a list of phrases from the text game along with a few from the books and made up a few that seemed relevant. Here's the default list:
Earth: Mostly harmless.	President Beeblebrox is a Swell Guy	Guaranteed to work normally for life.
What do you get when you multiply 6 by 9?	I'm Your Plastic Pal Who's Fun To Be With	DON'T PANIC!
010101 010101 010101 010101 010101 010101	The Secret: Bang the rocks together, guys	G.S.A.: THERE IS NO SUCH AGENCY
You have no tea.	Please relax, you are perfectly safe..	Another fine product of Sirius Cybernetic
6 * 9 = 42 (in base 13)	Go stick your head in a pig - SCCMD	The ultimate answer is 'forty-two'
Mostly Harmless	NUTRIMAT MAIN MEMORY OVERLOAD	How many roads must a man walk down?
SORRY FOR THE INCONVENIENCE	NUTRIMAT RESERVE MEMORY OVERLOAD	Share and Enjoy...
The Universe: Avg. Population = 0	NUTRIMAT PROCESSOR OVERLOAD	Sense, Common: order part #31-541
Space: really big.	WAIT...Checking Sub-Etha-Net database...	Resistance is useless!
Please do not press the red button.	NUTRIMAT GOING ON LINE	Can YOU afford a Magrathean Planet?
Please do not press this button again.	SHIPBOARD COMPUTER ACCESSED	Babel Fish: Small, yellow, leechlike...
It has little pink and blue flowers.	Happy to be of service	The Universe: Monetary Units: none
Out to lunch. Please Come back in 2 years	Buy Santraginean Mineral Water	G'GUGVUNTS=0 DOG=VL'HURGS=0 3800
If Life or Death, go ahead and PANIC.	Please do not block the tiny robot panel	Petunia Articulation Oh no, not again...
Legendary planets can be dangerous	Avoid Vogon poetry appreciation chairs	I THINK THEREFORE I AM
Improbability Factor = 2^39,745:1 against	You are in Galactic Sector ZZ9 PLURAL ZA	Look at me, brain the size of a planet
This is the thanks I get?	That was NOT the autopilot Button!	You should know I feel very depressed.
This routine check will take 14.9 years	This SCC product has a lifetime guarantee	Press for Advanced Tea Substitute
Don't even think about leaving...	NUTRIMAT RESERVE MEMORY ACCESSED	This SCC lifetime guarantee is expired
Is that a babel fish in your ear?	NUTRIMAT PARALLEL PROCESSORS ON LINE	Zaphod Beeblebrox is just this guy-y'know
Support the Galactic Anti-Litter Program.	** NUMBERS BEING ** CRUNCHED... **	Please do not press this button again.
MegaDodo Publication HHG Model Mark II	Pressing the red button won't help.	FOOTNOTE 12: Famous&recursive footnote.
Get Joo Janta peril-sensitive sunglasses	(We were lying about the exit to port.)	Pleased to meet you. I'm your computer.
Ravenous Bugblatter Beast of Traal-AVOID	Thank you, thank you.	Digital Watches are neat.