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Thursday, May 17, 2012

Tech Tip of the Day: RAID by the numbers

Description: This guide will walk through the 3 most common types of RAID (Redundant Array of Independent/Inexpensive Disks) and their purpose.

RAID 0

RAID 0 is not a true RAID as there is no redundancy with RAID 0. RAID 0 is typically referred to as a performance RAID as it takes all of your data and stripes it across two drives. The idea behind this RAID is that with two drives actively accessing all of your data it could theoretically be accessed twice as fast. Statistically this is not accurate, though performance is increased.
    Advantages
    • Faster load times/speed increase
    • Uses the capacity of both disks

    Disadvantages
    • No redundancy - one drive fails all data is lost

RAID 1

RAID 1 is most commonly referred to as a mirrored RAID. RAID 1 takes all of your data and duplicates it exactly between the two drives in a RAID. Should one drive fail within the RAID 1 setup the other drive will take over as the primary drive without any data loss. The failed drive can then be replaced and the RAID array rebuilt in order to re-establish the mirror between the two drives.
    Advantages
    • Data Redundancy
    • One drive fails the other keeps going
    Disadvantages
    • Requires 2 hard drives of equal capacity only

RAID 5

RAID 5 is somewhat of a combination of RAID 0 and RAID 1. It is a data stripe with a level of redundancy. RAID 5 uses three separate hard drives and stripes data across all 3 drives, but there is a level of redundancy so if one drive fails the other two take over. For this reason the overall capacity of the RAID volume is the sum of two of the three drives.
    Advantages
    • Data Redundancy
    • Increased capacity (two out of three drives in the array)
    Disadvantages
    • Requires 3 hard drives of equal capacity

For more assistance contact Technical Support here.

Tuesday, May 15, 2012

Tech Tip of the Day: How to download, install and immunize your browser with Spybot

Description: This article will show you how to download, install and immunize your browser using Spybot. Spybot - Search & Destroy detects and removes spyware, a relatively new kind of threat not yet covered by common anti-virus applications. Spyware silently tracks your surfing behavior to create a marketing profile for you that is transmitted without your knowledge to the compilers and sold to advertising companies.

If you see new toolbars in your Internet Explorer that you haven't intentionally installed, if your browser crashes inexplicably, or if your home page has been "hijacked" (or changed without your knowledge), your computer is most probably infected with spyware. Even if you don't see the symptoms, your computer may be infected, because more and more spyware is emerging. Spybot-S&D is free, so there's no harm giving it a try to see if something has invaded your computer.¹
  1. Open you browser and go to the SpyBot home page

    spybot homepage

  2. Click on the download link in the upper right corner.
  3. When the page loads click download

    download

  4. Select the mirror to download from

    mirror

  5. Click on the download link

    download

  6. Select ‘Run’ to start the download and install

    run

  7. Select language and click OK

    language

  8. Click on Next

    Next

  9. Accept the license agreement and click Next

    accept

  10. Select or change install location and click Next

    install location

  11. Select or deselect components and click Next

    components

  12. Select start menu folder location and click Next

    start menu

  13. Select Additional Tasks and click Next

    additional tasks

  14. Click on Install to begin installation

    Install

    installing

  15. Select Finish when install is complete

    finish

    loading

  16. Click on Create Registry Backup
    • When completed, click Next

    create registry backup

  17. Select "Start Using The Program"

    start using program

  18.  Click on Immunize to immunize your browser.

    Immunize

  19. When Immunization scan is completed and unprotected lists zero, close program.

    finish
For more assistance contact Technical Support here.

¹cited from http://www.safer-networking.org

Monday, May 14, 2012

TRON Case Mod: Part 1

I once mentioned that for a unique one-of-a kind case, you will have to build or modify it yourself. If you have read some of my other case mod articles, you know that some of the modifications you can do can be very simple, such as adding a window, installing case lighting, or replacing air cooling with water cooling. You also probably noticed that some of my case mods have been very elaborate shells over a standard frame or chassis - everything from carved wood with stained-glass inserts like the Art Nouveau Case, to engraved and bejeweled limestone in the EgyptMod Case. My latest case mod project is inspired by the Disney movie "TRON" and the computer game "Tron 2.0." As a change of pace, I decided to build one that requires a bit more conservative alterations for those of you that can't run out to buy all sorts of specialized tools to play with.

Build 1.0 - The Shell


[System User: TRaceON]

For a TRON-themed case mod, I started with a Silverstone Kublai case and disassembled
the front bezel and side panels for modification. The case is steel except for
the solid aluminum front cover.

The Logo Panel:






The Silverstone Kublai Case, the TRON movie poster and one version of the TRON 2.0 game box.

The solid side panel is prepared for the addition of a back-lit TRON logo,
based on the original TRON movie poster, but updated with the TRON 2.0 game
characters. To start, the original poster design was scaled to fit the panel,
and the outline transferred to the inside of the steel panel. Using a plasma
cutter, I quickly lopped out the irregular-shaped opening. The sharp edges were
ground down and the large circle outline smoothed out with the grinder. A piece
of 1/8" polycarbonate sheet is cut to fit inside the side panel.



The logo-shaped hole is cut in the solid side panel. A piece of scrap 1/4"
acrylic is clamped to the inside to trace the opening.

Next, a piece of 1/4" acrylic is clamped inside the logo hole and the
edge of the hole is traced onto the plastic with a colored marker. The outlined
shape was cut out on a scroll saw, and then rough-finished with some cutting
burrs. The game characters are cut out of another piece of 1/4" acrylic
and rough-shaped using a Dremel tool with a router bit and cutting burrs in
the flexible shaft. The concentric rings the figures stand on are cut from a
third piece of acrylic which was ground down to taper from thick in the front
to a thin edge behind the figures. The "TRON" letters are shaped from
1/4" UV-reactive acrylic. All of the shapes are then glued together. Once
the glue on the figures has set, the entire logo is glued to the polycarbonate
sheet. The surface of the figures is then coated with several coats of black
paint; carving through the paint coating will expose the clear plastic, allowing
the back-lights to shine through.


1) The rough-cut pieces. 2) Gluing the figures together. 3) The assembled insert.




4) Painting the insert black. 5) Panel before detail carving and final assembly.


The Top Panel:

The front bezel assembly has a "cap" that contains the power and
reset buttons, and an opening for USB, 1394, and front panel audio ports. There
is a clear lens through the center section, illuminated by 3 blue LEDs. A single
red LED flashes with disk activity. I removed the blue LEDs and created a small
oval board with 16 blue LEDs radiating out from the center. I then enlarged
a center hole in the clear lens to accept the assembly.

My original idea for the top surface was to create a geometric pattern of plastic
shapes out of UV-reactive plastic sheet, but my free-hand sawing and sanding
skill just aren't up to it. After wasting most of a 2 square-foot sheet, I ordered
a selection of glass tiles and attached these with epoxy to the surface. More
tiles will be placed on the side panels and inside the case to carry the theme
throughout the project.



Glass tile being glued to the top panel (left) and the nearly-completed pattern (right).




Testing tile clearance with the front bezel in position. Close up of LED assembly.


The Window Panel:

The side window panel had the factory acrylic window removed and the opening
enlarged to expose the drive bays. Two holes are drilled with a small hole saw,
and shears used to cut the straight lines. A single piece of acrylic sheet is
trimmed to fit over the entire panel and held in place with plastic locking
rivets. Glass tile will be attached after some paint touch up from the drilling.



The window panel hole in the process of being enlarged (left).
Playing with glass tiles on the un-mounted acrylic window (right).

[System User: TRaceOFF]

(to be continued...)